Monday, August 19, 2019

8 August 2019 Athens


This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in 2019. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).
Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

The weather forecast in the Viking Daily newsletter said: “Sunny, 97°F / 36°C” and Sunrise: 6:31 AM.”

MT woke up before sunrise.


MT Thursday, ‎August 8, ‎2019, 6:09 AM – Viking Star: beginning of sunrise over Piraeus port, from our stateroom balcony. 

Don got up at 6:50 am.


6:50 AM – Viking Star: our stateroom, 4043, view toward balcony. 



6:50 AM – Viking Star: our stateroom, 4043, view toward exit.

We went to breakfast in the World Café around 7:30, and vacated our stateroom at 8:00, as directed.

Since we were not going to the airport to depart on a flight booked through Viking or using a Viking extension in Athens, we just picked up our suitcases in the cruise terminal baggage room and found a taxi out front. Our friendly driver was Christos. We paid the standard rate of €25, plus a €5 tip. On the way to our hotel, he took us past the closest Catholic church.

We arrived at the Best Western Plus Amazon hotel around 8:30, and our room was ready.


Around 10:05, we headed for the Acropolis. But on the way there, we again passed through the Pláka district. 


Viking map of Pláka; legend: 6 = Temple of Olympian Zeus, 7 = Acropolis, 9= Pláka [intersection of Kydathineon and Adrianou streets], 10 = Church [Cathedral] of the Metropolis, 12 = Theater of Dionysos, 17 = Arch of Hadrian, 18 = Roman Agora.

Pláka (Greek: Πλάκα) is the old historical neighborhood of Athens, clustered around the northern and eastern slopes of the Acropolis. It incorporated labyrinthine streets (most of which are pedestrianized) and neoclassical architecture. Pláka is built on top of the residential areas of the ancient town of Athens. Even though only a few houses date back further than the Ottoman period (1453-1830), it is the oldest area of the city, continuously inhabited for around 3,000 years. Pláka was developed mostly around the ruins of the Ancient Agora of Athens. During the years of Ottoman rule, it was known as the “Turkish quarter” of Athens. Until the late 19th century, Pláka had a sizable community of Arvanites (Albanian soldiers who settled in Greece in service of the Ottoman Turks in the 16th century).

The name “Pláka” was not in use until after the Greek War of Independence (1821-30). The origin of the name is uncertain; it may have come from “Pliak Athena,” meaning “Old Athens” in Arvanitika (a variety of Albanian spoken by the Arvanites) via Albanian plaka, meaning “old,” or from the presence of a “plaque” that once marked its central intersection (of its two main streets, Kydathineon and Adrianou).

Adrianou street, running north-south, divided the district into two areas: the Ano Pláka (Upper Pláka) right under the Acropolis, and the Kato Pláka (Lower Pláka), between Syntagma and Monastiraki.



We happened upon the Pláka Stairs. [NOTE: From this point on, in order to integrate MT’s photos with Don’s, it was necessary to note that the time on her iPhone was about 7 minutes behind that on his camera.]


MT 10:06 (Don’s 10:13) AM – Athens: MT and Don on Pláka Stairs, which ran through the middle of restaurant(s), with café tables on both sides.

One place in the Pláka district that attracts tourists is the Pláka Stairs, located especially at Mnisikleous street. The stairs lead straight up the slope of the Acropolis Hill.


MT 10:06 (Don’s 10:13) AM (Cropped) – Athens: MT and Don with sign in Greek at top of Pláka Stairs for Ταβερνα γεροσ του Μωρια (Taverna o Geros tou Moria) [this is how Don later pinpointed our location].

Taverna o Geros tou Moria (Greek: Ταβερνα ο γεροσ του Μωρια), since 1926, is located at Mnisikleous 27 (just off Thrasyillou St.) in the Pláka District, under the Acropolis. It is at the top of Mnisikleous St. and the top of the Pláka Stairs. It is divided over the houses on either side of the steps and the steps themselves.


But first we stopped at the small Church of the Metamorphosis Sotiros at the foot of the north side of the Acropolis.


10:06 AM – Athens: Church of the Metamorphosis – main (east) façade and dome (didn’t notice couple resting on grass).

The Church of the Metamorphosis Sotiros (Greek: Μεταμόρφωση του Σωτήρος), dated to the 11th century. Dedicated to the Transfiguration of the Savior, it is affectionately called “Sotirakis,” meaning the little Savior, because of its small size. The church is also called “Sortira tou Kottaki,” after the Athenian family that once owned it. The addition of the family name distinguished it from the other Church of the Metamorphosis in the Upper Pláka, which is also called “Sotiraki.” Originally dedicated to Virgin Mary the Savior, it functioned as a Russian Orthodox church from 1847 to 1855. It is situated just to the north of the Acropolis, on Theorías street at the intersection with Klepsydras street in the Pláka district. It is a Byzantine tetrastyle  (four-columned) cross-in-square church with an Athenian dome. A large arch still visible on the north exterior outlines the original entrance. The north side is in part built with the normal cloisonné system of masonry (sculpted stones surrounded by brick), but the west side if made of rubble and marble bits (possibly from the ruins of a nearby ancient temple or an early Christian church), indicating a lot or repairs made over time. The Athenian-style dome is well proportioned but with time has lost the marble facing in top of the windows and just under the tiles.



MT 10:09 (Don’s 10:16) AM – Athens: Don on street leading up to where we entered the Acropolis, which is visible above the trees. 



10:18 AM – Athens: Panagia Church of the Metamorphosis - left (north) side, with outline of large arch visible next to street. 



10:18 AM – Athens: Church of the Metamorphosis - apse (west) side on street, with sign at right. 



10:19 AM – Athens: sign near apse for “Church of the Metamorphosis”, although the Greek version at the top includes “Sotiros”; the Acropolis is visible in background. 

Then we arrived at the Acropolis ticket office.


10:29 AM – Athens: sign at Acropolis ticket office; the English part at the top says: “Price Ticket: Acropolis and Theater of Dionysos – 20 Euro”; for €30, it offered a combination ticket for the Acropolis and 6 other sites in Athens (including the Acropolis Museum, which would cost us only €8 separately), valid for 5 days. 



One of our €20 tickets for “Acropolis and Slopes” valid for only Aug 8, purchased at 10:23. 

After a medium-size line at the ticket office, there was a very long line to the actual entrance.


10:54 AM – Athens: Acropolis – sign near entrance for “Acropolis and Slopes.”

An acropolis (Greek: ἄκροπόλις, romanized akropolis, from akros = at the point, end, or top; or akron = highest + polis = city) is the fortified upper part of an ancient Greek city. Plural acropoleis.

Athens: Acropolis , seen from the Hill of the Muses (By Carole Raddato from FRANKFURT, Germany - The Acropolis of Athens viewed from the Hill of the Muses, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37881267).

The Acropolis of Athens is an ancient citadel located on a flat-topped rocky outcrop that rises 150 m (490 ft) above sea level over the city of Athens. It contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historical significance, the most famous being the Parthenon. Although the term acropolis is generic and there are many other acropoleis in Greece, the significance of the acropolis of Athens is such that it is commonly known as “The Acropolis” without qualification. During ancient times, it was also known more properly as Cecropia, after the legendary serpent-man Cecrops, the supposed first king of Athens.

Athens: Acropolis , seen from Mount Lycabettus at dawn(By User:Leonard G. - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2205944).

 While there is evidence that the hill was inhabited as far back as the 4th millennium BC, it was the influential Greek statesman, orator, and general Pericles (c. 495-429 BC) who coordinated the construction of the site’s most important present remains in the 5th century BC. All the buildings of the Archaic period had been destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC. Pericles persuaded the Athenians to begin a grand program of new building work that transformed the Acropolis with three contrasting temples and a monumental gateway. The Theater of Dionysus on the south slope was developed in the 4th century BC, and the Theater of Herodes Atticus was added in the 2nd century AD. The Parthenon and the other buildings were seriously damaged during the 1687 siege by the Venetians when gunpowder stored in the Parthenon was hit by a cannonball and exploded.


Athens: Acropolis site plan showing major archaeological remains (By Madmedea. - Own work, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1710261); key to callouts: 1 = Parthenon, 2 = Old Temple of Athena, 3 = Erechtheum, 4 – Statue of Athena Promachos, 5 = Propylaea, 6 = Temple of Athena Nike, 7 = Eleusinion, 8 = Sanctuary of Artemis Brauronia or Brauroneion, 9 = Chalkotheke, 10 = Pandroseion, 11 = Arrephorion, 12 = Altar of Athena, 13 = Sanctuary of Zeus Polieus, 14 = Sanctuary of Pandion, 15 = Odeon [Theater] of Herodes Atticus, 16 = Stoa of Eumenes, 17 = Sanctuary of Asclepius or Asclepieion. 18 = Theater of Dionysus Eleuthereus, 19 = Odeon of Pericles, 20 = Temenos of Dionysus Eleuthereus, 21 = Aglaureion.



After climbing steps from the entrance, we came to the Theater of Herodes Atticus, to the left (our right) of the entrance. 


10:54 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Theater of Herodes Atticus, viewed from above.

The Theater of Herodes Atticus, also known as Odeon of Herodes Atticus or Herodeion (Greek: Ωδείο Ηρώδου του Αττικού or Ηρώδειο) or Herodion or Iródio, is a stone Roman theater hollowed out on the southwest slope of the Acropolis. The structure was completed between 161 and 174 AD and renovated in 1950. It was built by the Greek Herodes Atticus (101-177 AD), a Greco-Roman politician and sophist who served as a Roman senator, in memory of his Roman wife. It was originally a steep-sloped theater with a three-story stone front wall and a wooden roof made of cedar of Lebanon. It lasted until the roof was destroyed and the theater left in ruins by the Heruli (a Germanic tribe) in 267 AD.

 

Athens: Historical image of Odeon of Herodes Atticus (ca. 1880) (By Brooklyn Museum - Theater of Dionysius, Athens, Greece.Uploaded by palnatoke, No restrictions, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=27885617).

The audience stands and the orchestra (stage) were restored using Pentelic marble in the 1950s. Behind the stage, the distinctive  colonnade once held statues of the nine Muses. The theater, which seats 5,000 spectators, is still in use today.

An odeon, odeion, odeum, or odea [all from ancient Greek ᾠδεῖον (ōideîon), from ᾠδή (ōidḗ, song”, although the latter two are through Latin], especially in ancient Greece or Rome, was a roofed building used for musical performances or poetry competitions; hence a theater or concert hall in modern times.



10:59 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Theater of Herodes Atticus – part of colonnade and stone seats, viewed from side above. 

We would see more of this theater later.

To the right (our left) of the entrance was the Temple of Athena Nike.


10:59 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Temple of Athena Nike from below, near Theater of Herodes Atticus (telephoto 156 mm).

The Temple of Athena Nike (Greek: Ναός Αθηνάς Νίκης, Naós Athinás Níkis) is a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena Nike built to commemorate the Athenians’ victory over the Persians. Nike means “victory” in Greek, and Athena was worshiped in this form, representative of being victorious in war. Built in 426-421 BC, at the site of at least two earlier shrines dedicated to the same goddess, it was the earliest fully Ionic temple on the Acropolis. Proportionally, the small building was more heavily adorned than any Ionic temple in the history of Greek architecture. It has a prominent position on a steep Mycenean bastion at the southwest corner of the Acropolis to the right of the entrance, the Propylaea. In contrast to the Acropolis proper, which is a walled sanctuary entered through the Propylaea, the Victory (Nike) Sanctuary was open, entered from the Propylaea’s southwest wing and from a narrow staircase on the north. The sheer walls of its bastion were protected on the north, west, and south by the Nike Parapet, named for its frieze of Nikai (plural) celebrating victory and sacrificing to their patroness, Athena Nike.

The temple has four Ionic columns 4 m (13 ft) high at each portico end. After being destroyed by the Ottomans on 1686, it was reconstructed in 1834-38. On the point of collapse in 1936, it was again dismantled and reconstructed according to information resulting from more recent research.


We would see more of this temple after viewing more of the Theater of Herodes Atticus.


11:00 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Theater of Herodes Atticus – stone seats, part of colonnade, and stage, viewed from side above. 



MT 10:53 (Don’s 11:00) AM – Athens: Acropolis – Don and MT above Theater of Herodes Atticus – stone seats, part of colonnade, and stage, viewed from side above. 



MT 10:55 (Don’s 11:02) AM – Athens: Acropolis – Don and MT above Theater of Herodes Atticus – stone seats, part of colonnade, and stage, viewed from side above. 



11:00 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Theater of Herodes Atticus – stone seats, central part of colonnade, and stage, viewed straight on from above. 



11:01 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Theater of Herodes Atticus – central part of colonnade, and stage, viewed straight on from above (telephoto 63 mm). 



11:00 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Theater of Herodes Atticus – central and right parts of colonnade, stage, and stone seats, viewed straight on from above; in distance at right is the Philopappos Monument on top of the Hill of Muses. 



11:01 AM – Athens: Acropolis – view, from Theater of Herodes Atticus (part of its colonnade in right foreground), of the Philopappos Monument on top of the Hill of Muses (telephoto 156 mm). 

 

Athens: Philopappos Monument on top of the Hill of Muses (By © Guillaume Piolle, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6030667).

 The Philopappos Monument (Greek: Μνημείο Φιλοπάππου, romanized Mnimío Philopáppou) is an ancient Greek mausoleum and monument dedicated to Gaius Julius Antiochus Epiphanes Philoppasos (65-116 AD), a prince of the Kingdom of Commagene (an ancient Greco-Iranian kingdom that existed just north of Syria in 163 BC-72 AD, after 17 AD as a Roman client state). Although the kingdom was dissolved in 72 AD, Philopappos always considered himself as having the status of a monarch. He spent the remainder of his life in Athens and became a prominent and respected benefactor of the city. The monument is located on top of the Hill of Muses (Mouseion Hill), also known as Philopappou Hill, southwest of the Acropolis. The location of this marble tomb, opposite the Acropolis and within formal boundaries of the city, shows the high position Philopappos had within Athenian society. Although the Greek geographer Pausanias described the tomb as a “monument built for a Syrian man,” Philopappos had both Roman and Athenian citizenship; he was an archon (chief magistrate) in Athens as well as a Roman consul and one of the most prominent Greeks in the Roman Empire.



11:02 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Theater of Herodes Atticus – central and right parts of colonnade, stage, and stone seats, viewed straight on from above; in distance at right is the Philopappos Monument on top of the Hill of Muses. 



11:02 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Theater of Herodes Atticus – other tourists on overlook viewing it straight on. 



11:04 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Theater of Herodes Atticus – stone seats and colonnade, viewed from higher up on Acropolis; in distance is the Philopappos Monument on top of the Hill of Muses. 



11:06 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Don standing on rough stone path with his guidebook for “Greece: Athens & the Mainland”; MT’s foot at right. 



11:06 AM – Athens: Acropolis – masses of people going up steps of Propylaia, with some coming down on far side (although some persisted in coming down the up staircase); Pedestal of Agrippa (at left) at lower end of staircase; MT in right foreground.

In Greek or Roman architecture, a propylaion (Greek, with plural propylaia) or propylaeum (Latin with plural propylaea), from the Greek pro = before + pylē = gate, was an entrance, vestibule, or portico before a building or group of buildings; especially, in the plural, the structure forming the entrance to the Acropolis.


Athens: Acropolis – Propylaia, with Pedestal of Agrippa (left) and Temple of Nike Athena (right) flanking steps leading to six-columned west façade of central building (By George E. Koronaios - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=90461000).

 The Propylaia (Greek: προπύλαια), or Propylaea, was a monumental gateway to the Acropolis. It was one of several public works commissioned by Pericles to rebuild the Acropolis a generation after the conclusion of the Persian Wars. Construction began in 437 BC and was terminated in 432, when the building was still unfinished, with the eastern wings missing. As a result of the outbreak of the Peloponnesian War between Athens and Sparta in 431 BC, the Propylaia was never completed. It was constructed of white Pentelic marble, with gray Eleusinian marble and limestone used for accents. Structural iron was also used, although it actually weakened the building. The Propylaia controlled the entrance into the Acropolis. Although it was not built as a fortified structure, it was important that people not ritually clean be denied access into the sanctuary.

The structure consists of a central building with two adjoining wings on the outer (west) side, one to the north and one to the south. The central building has a standard six-columned façade both to the west to those entering the Acropolis and on the east for those departing. The columns echo the proportions (but not the size) of those of the Parthenon. The central building contains the gate wall, which contains five gates and divides the portico. The current marble stairway was built around 52 AD, and, following the Herulian invasion (267 AD), was constructed immediately in front of the Propylaia as part of the further fortification of the citadel and the city. Parts of the Propylaia were accidentally destroyed when struck by lightning in 1645 and severely damaged by an explosion of a powder magazine in 1656, foreshadowing the even greater damage to the Parthenon from a similar cause in 1687. Starting in 1984, the Propylaia was partly restored; all scaffolding was removed at the end of 2009. Then a contract for restoration of the central building was awarded in 2013.

Athens: Acropolis – 1891 drawing of what the west side of the Propylaia might have looked like sometime after 267 AD when the Beulé Gate was constructed in front of the west staircase, with Temple of Athena Nike to right of the 6-columned façade; at the left, behind the Propylaia, is the over 12-m tall statue of Athena that has been lost (Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=156815).

  

Athens: Acropolis – Propylaia from the southwest in 1882, with Pedestal of Agrippa at left (By William James Stillman - This file was donated to Wikimedia Commons as part of a project by the National Gallery of Art. Please see the Gallery's Open Access Policy., CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=80955952).

  

Athens: Acropolis – Propylaia, with Pedestal of Agrippa at left and Temple of Athena Nike at right, probably late 19th-century (By Unknown author - LSH 104633 (hm_dig18148), Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=44815586).

The Buelé Gate is named after the French archaeologist Ernest Buelé, who discovered it. It was built in 267 AD, after the raid of the Heruli, a Germanic people, as part of the Roman fortifications of the Acropolis. The gate was framed to the north and south by two rectangular towers. Both the gate and the towers were made or reused stones from earlier structures, such as the choregic monument of Nikias that was situated on the south slope of the Acropolis between the Theater of Dionysus and the Stoa of Eumenes. That monument, built in 320-319 BC, was dismantled in late antiquity. The gate was in use for several centuries, while rooms were added to the inner side for protection from the weather for the guards and those who entered the citadel through it. In the 11th century, an upper floor was built on the gate to provide better protection of the entrance to the Acropolis entrance. In 1686, when the Ottoman Turks destroyed the Temple of Athena Nike, they used the marble to build a bastion for artillery over the gate. At the time of the Frankish occupation (1204-1311), the use of the gate ceased. The gate remained covered until Buelé discovered it 1852 and excavated it in 1852. Due to the poor state of preservation of the gate towers, consolidation works were carried out in the late 19th century.


 Athens: Acropolis – remains of Buelé Gate below the base of the monumental staircase on the west side of Propylaia (By George E. Koronaios - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=90531933).

 

Athens: Acropolis – Pedestal of Agrippa (By Andrzej Otrębski - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=25514075).

The Pedestal of Agrippa is located west of the Propylaia and the same height as the Temple of Athena Nike to the south. It was built in 178 BC in honor of Eumenes II of Pergamon to commemorate his victory in the Panathenaic Games chariot race. It is 8.9 m high. It was the base of a bronze quadriga (drawn by four horses abreast) chariot, life-size, probably driven by Eumenes and/or his brother Attalus II.



11:06 AM – Athens: Acropolis – masses of people going up steps of Propylaia, showing all six columns of west façade of central building with columns of its east façade behind them. 



MT 11:06 (Don’s 11:13) AM – Athens: Acropolis – Don with masses of people going up steps of Propylaia. 



11:07 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Temple of Athena Nike, from steps below.

 

Athens: Acropolis – Temple of Athena Nike, viewed from the Propylaia (By Jebulon - Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=50802579).

The Temple of Athena Nike is the earliest fully Ionic temple on the Acropolis. It has a prominent position on a steep bastion at the edge of a high cliff at the southwest corner of the Acropolis to the right (west) of the Propylaia entrance. In contrast to the Acropolis proper, which is a walled sanctuary entered through the Propylaia, this Victory Sanctuary was open, entered from the Propylaia’s west wing and from a narrow staircase on the north. Nike means “victory” in Greek, and Athena was worshiped in this form, representative of being victorious in war.

There is evidence that the location was used for religious ritual already in the Mycenaean age (roughly 1600-1100 BC). A small temple of Athena Nike had been built here in the 6th century BC. After it was demolished by the Persians in 480 BC, this new temple was built over the remains. Constructed of white Pentelic marble, the new temple was built in stages, as wartime funding allowed. Construction began in 449 BC and was finished around 420 BC. If still in use by the 4th century AD, it would have been closed during the persecution of pagans (non-Christians) in the late Roman Empire. The temple sat untouched until it was demolished in 1686 by the Ottoman Turks, who used the stones to build a defensive wall that surrounded the hill. It was excavated in the 1830s, and, in 1834 following the independence of Greece, it was reconstructed from remaining parts. In 1998, it was dismantled so that the crumbling concrete floor could be replaced, and its frieze was removed and its fragments placed in the Acropolis Museum and the British Museum. Copies of these are fixed in their place on the temple. Eventually, the entire building was reassembled using the original pieces, with some fill wherever needed. These additions can be recognized since they are of a lighter color than the original marble. A third reconstruction was carried out in 2010.

The temple is a tetrastyle (four-column) Ionic structure with a colonnaded portico at both the front and rear façades. These columns on the east and west sides were monolithic (made of a single block of stone rather than using horizontal column drums). The temple housed a statue of Athena Nike that lacked the customary wings, which Pausanias in the 2nd century said was so that she could never leave Athens.



11:10 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Temple of Athena Nike, from near top of steps below. 



11:11 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Temple of Athena Nike, from near top of steps below (mild telephoto 44 mm). 

After climbing the stairs, Don tried to take a photo of a sign, in Greek and English, for “A. The Propylaia, B. The Shrine of Athena Hygieia and Hygieia” but accidentally hit the button for making a VIDEO. 




11:17 AM – Athens: Acropolis – sign for “A. The Propylaia, B. The Shrine of Athena Hygieia and Hygieia” with confusion in crowd (VIDEO). 



11:17 AM – Athens: Acropolis – upper part of sign for “A. The Propylaia, B. The Shrine of Athena Hygieia and Hygieia” (screen shot from VIDEO); partially visible English text at top right reads [with help from text provided by www.city-of-athens.com]: 
“A. The Propylaia 
“The Propylaia, the monumental entrance of the sanctuary of the Acropolis. Was built at the west edge of the hill in the frame of a building programme of Perikles. The building’s architect was Mnesikles, who applied ingenious and innovative architectural solutions. The construction of the Propylaia (437-432 B.C.) was interrupted by the outbreak of the Peloponnesian War, and as a result the original plan remained incomplete. 
”The Propylaia comprise a central building with an E.-W. Direction and similar hexastyle (6 columns) doric pedimental facades. A cross-wall with five doorways divides the central building into two parts. The longer western one is divided into three aisles by two Ionic colonnades, each with three columns, which support the ceiling. The marble ceilings comprise beams and coffered slabs which had rich painted decoration. The central building of the Propylaia is flanked on the south and the north by two wings with a similar prostyle Doric porch. In the north wing the hall lying behind the porch might have served as a banquet and recreation hall for the worshippers. According to the traveler Pausanias (2nd cent. A.D.) the hall was decorated with paintings and for this reason is conventionally known as the ‘Pinakotheke’ (picture gallery). The south wing consists only of a porch through which the sanctuary of Athena Nike was accessed. 
“In the 6th cent. A.D., the south wing of the Propylaia was transformed into a single-aisle Christian basilica. In the Medieval times, Frankish and Florentine rulers converted the Propylaia into a palace and a tall tower was built at the south wing. During Ottoman occupation in 1640, the building was struck by a lighting {sic!} or a cannonball which blew up the gunpowder stored there and caused extensive damage to the monument. The Medieval and later remains were removed during the excavations of the Acropolis in the 19th cent., in order to reveal the Propylaia of the Classical period.”] 
English captions for the pictures at top of sign (from left to right) read: 
Top left: “Orthophotomosaic of Acropolis (Acropolis Restoration Service O.P. ‘Information Society’)” with triangle for “You are here” near number 3 (for Propylaia) on the left (west) side of the picture. 
Top center: “The west façade of the {Propylaia in the Classical period (reconstruction drawing by T. Tanoulas).” 
Below that in center: “The Propylaia in the Classical period ([reconstruction drawing by T. Tanoulas]).” 
Top right: “The west approach of the Acropolis and the Propylaia converted into a palace of the Frankish and Florentine rulers around 1450 (reconstruction drawing by T. Tanoulas).” 



8121a Thursday, ‎August 8, ‎2019, 11:17 AM – Athens: Acropolis – lower part of sign for “A. The Propylaia, B. The Shrine of Athena Hygieia and Hygieia” (screen shot from VIDEO); partially visible English text at bottom right reads [with help from other screenshots and text provided by www.city-of-athens.com]: 
“B. The Shrine of Athena Hygieia and Hygieia). 
“Southeast to the central building of the Propylaia is situated a [small shrine dedicated both to Hy]gieia (Health) and Hygieia, daughter of Asklepeios, who [was the god of medicine. The cult of Athena] Hygieia on the Acropolis, is dated since 6th cent. B.C., according [to epigraphical testimonia, whereas the] cult of Hygieia is dated around 420 B.C. 
“In the shrine, part of the rectangular altar and the cylindrical [marble base of a bronze statue of Athena Hy]gieia made by the Athenian sculptor Pyrrhos are pre[served. According to tradition (Plutarchus [Life of Pericles] 13.7-8) the statue was dedicated to the salvage of [a workman who suffered an accident during the con-]struction [of the Propylaia. However, it is more likely that the demos (people of Athens) [dedicated the statue] in relation to the plague that stroke [sic!] the city at the beginning of the Peloponnesian W[ar (429-427 B.C.)]. 
English captions for the pictures in the center (from top to bottom) read: 
“The Propylaia in the Classical period ([reconstruction drawing by T. Tanoulas]).” 
“The plan of the Propylaia in the Classical period. The wings of the Propylaia that were not [eventually] built are indicated by [hatching] whereas the earlier [propylon (gate)] with [dashed lines. ([reconstruction drawing by J. Travlos]).” 
“The cylindrical marble base of the statue of Ath[ena Hygieia] with the inscribed dedication [to the goddess]. 
[See https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=85103 for another rendition of same English text and photos of the entire sign and some of its illustrations.]

The remains of the sanctuary of Athena Hygieia are located in front of the southernmost column at the southeast corner of the east porch of the Propylaia. On the right (south) immediately after entering the Acropolis through the east porch of the Propylaia, is the site of the small open-air shrine of Athena Hygieia. The remains consist of several marble bits and pieces, the most recognizable of which are the foundations and sides of the sanctuary’s rectangular altar and a semicircular statue base inscribed with a dedication to Athena Hygieia. The marble statue base, discovered in 1839, is inscribed with the Greek dedication: “The Athenians (dedicated this) to Athena Hygieia. Pyrrhos the Athenian made it.” The 2nd-century AD traveler Pausanias wrote that there was a statue of Hygieia and one of Athena Hygieia near the entrance of the Acropolis. According to Plutarch (46-120 AD), Pericles set up a bronze statue of Athena Hygieia near the altar of that goddess on the Acropolis, after asking for her to inspire a physician to a successful course of treatment for a worker injured during the construction of the Parthenon in the 5th century BC. The semi-cylindrical form of the base is thought to have been designed so that the statue could stand directly in front of the column of the east porch.

 Athena (Greek: Ἀθηνᾶ) is the Greek goddess of wisdom and war, among other things. She is the daughter of Zeus. She is closely associated with Athens and is the patron of the city. In ancient times, scholars argued whether Athena was named after Athens or Athens after Athena. Now scholars generally agree that the goddess takes her name from the city. Athena Hygieia was one of the many cult titles given to Athena.

In Athens, Hygieia was the subject of a local cult from at least the 7th century BC. The already existing worship of Athena Hygieia had nothing to do with Hygieia, the goddess of health, but merely denoted the recognition of the power of healing as one of the attributes of Athena, which gradually became crystallized into a concrete personality.

In Greek, as well as Roman, mythology, Hygieia (Ancient Greek: Ὑγιεία or Ὑγεία; Latin: Hygēa or Hygīa) was one of the Asclepiadae, the daughters and sons of Asklepios (Latin: Asclepius), the god of medicine, and his wife Epione. Hygieia was the goddess (personification) of health (Greek: ὑγίεια, hugieia), cleanliness, and sanitation. Hygieia also played an important part in her father’s cult. While her father was more directly associated with healing, she was associated with the prevention of sickness and the continuation of good health. Her name became the source of the word hygiene.

Hygieia was usually worshiped in the same temples with her father. However, the cult of Hygieia as an independent goddess did not begin to spread until the Delphic oracle recognized her, and after the devastating Plague of Athens (430-427 BC) and Rome in 293 BC. In Greek art, she is often pictured as a woman feeding a serpent out of a saucer. Thus, her symbol is a (sometimes drinking) serpent. Her sacred snake together with the rod of Asclepius is the symbol of medicine (although, especially in the US, the similar caduceus, the traditional symbol of Hermes with two snakes winding around an often winged staff, may be used as the symbol of medicine). The original Hippocratic Oath began with the invocation “I swear by Apollo the Healer and by Asclepius and by Hygieia and Panacea and by all the gods….”



11:17 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Propylaia – east side. 



MT 11:11 (Don’s 11:18) AM – Athens: Acropolis – MT with Propylaia – east side. 



11:20 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Temple of Athena Nike to west of Propylaia (telephoto 93 mm). 



11:18 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Parthenon – west end with scaffolding, viewed from near east side of Propylaia.

The Parthenon (Greek: Παρθενώνας, Parthenónas) is a former temple on the Acropolis, dedicated to the goddess Athena. Construction began in 447 BD, when the Athenian Empire was at the peak of its power. It was completed in 438 BC, although decoration of the building continued until 432 BC. It replaced an older temple of Athena that was destroyed in the Persian invasion of 480 BC. It is the most important surviving building of Classical Greece, generally considered the zenith of the Doric order.

In common with other Greek temples, the Parthenon is of a post and lintel construction and is surrounded by Doric columns. There are eight columns at either end and 17 on the sides. There is a double row of columns at either end. The colonnade surrounds an inner masonry structure, the cells, which is divided into two compartments. At either end of the building, the gable is finished with a triangular pediment occupied by sculpted figures.

The Parthenon’s name is from the Greek word παρθενών (parthenon), which referred to the “unmarried women’s apartments” in a house and in the Parthenon’s case seems to have been used at first only for a particular room in the western cella (inner chamber) of the temple that housed a group of four young girls chosen to serve Athena each year. Since the Greek παρθένος (parthénos) meant “maiden, girl, unmarried woman, or virgin,” another theory is that the name Parthenon means the “temple of the virgin,” referring to Athena.

Although the Parthenon is architecturally a temple, it is not really one in the conventional sense. Although a small shrine has been excavated within the building, on the site of an older temple dedicated to Athena, the Parthenon never hosted the cult of Athens, patron of Athens. Rather, it should be viewed as a grand setting for Phidias’ colossal votive statue of Athens, which was not related to any cult and is not known to have inspired any religious fervor.

In the final decade of the 6th century AD, the Parthenon was converted into a Christian church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. After the Ottoman conquest, it was turned into a mosque in the early 1460s. In 1687, an Ottoman ammunition dump inside the building was ignited by Venetian bombardment during the siege of the Acropolis. The resulting explosion severely damaged the Parthenon and its sculptures. Since 1975, numerous large-scale restoration projects have been undertaken, the latest expected to finish in 2020.

Only a very small number of sculptures remain in situ; most of the surviving sculptures are now in museums. From 1800 to 1803, Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin removed some of the surviving sculptures, now known as the Elgin Marbles and displayed in the British Museum in London. The British Museum also holds other fragments from the Parthenon sculptures acquired from various collection s that have no connection with Lord Elgin. Other surviving sculptures are in museums or storerooms in Athens and in various museums in Europe.

Phidias (c. 480-439 BC) was a Greek sculptor, painter, and architect who designed the statues of Athena on the Acropolis, namely the Athena Parthenos inside the Parthenon and the colossal Athena Promachos which stood between it and the Propylaia. Both are now lost and are known only through smaller copies from ancient and modern times.

Athena Parthenos inside the Parthenon and was designed as the focal point. Parthenos, meaning maiden or virgin, was an epithet of Athena. It was the most renowned cult image of Athens. According to the 2nd-century AD traveler and writer Pausanias, the statue was around 26 cubits (around 11.5 m, or 35 ft 9 in) tall. It was a chryseleohantine (made of gold and ivory) sculpture. Around 447 BC, the Athenian tyrant Lachares removed the gold sheets to pay his troops, and the bronze replacements were probably gilded thereafter. An account mentions it in Constantinople in the 10th century AD.

 

Varvakeion Athena (By Unknown (After Phidias' Athena Parthenos) - Marsyas, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=470164).

 The Varvakeion Athena, a 2nd- or 3rd-century AD replica of the Athena Parthenos in marble that is generally considered the most faithful copy, is now in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.

The Athena Promachos was a colossal bronze statue of Athens that stood between the Parthenon and the Propylaia and between the Erechtheion and the Propylaia. In the 2nd century AD, Pausanias referred to it as “the great bronze Athena.” The designation Promachos is not attested before a dedicatory inscription in the early 4th century AD. In ancient Greece, the Promachoi (singular Promachos), literally translated as “forefighters,” were the soldiers fighting in the first rank of a phalanx. It came to mean a defender or champion. It was erected around 456 BC either to memorialize the Battle of Marathon or in gratitude to Athena for her contribution to victories in the Persian Wars. According to various sources, it was either over 12 m (39.4 ft) or around 9.1 m (30 ft) tall. According to Pausanias, the top of Athena’s helmet and the tip of her spear could be seen by sailors and anyone approaching Athens from Attica, as far away as Sounion, which is 70 km (43 mi) southeast of Athens. The statue overlooked Athens for approximately 1,000 years, until shortly after 465 AD, when it was transported to Constantinople, which had become a safe haven for many surviving Greek sculptures under the protection of the Eastern Empire. It is documented that, during a riot taking place in Constantinople in 1203 AD, a “drunken crowd” of Crusaders destroyed a large bronze statue of Athena, which is now thought to have been the Athena Promachos. The exact form of the statue is unknown. Greek coins from the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD show the only known images of Phidias’ Athena Promachos: on one side is the depiction of the Acropolis from the north with a large statue of Athena between the Propylaia and the Erechtheion, facing toward the west.

  

Ancient Athenian coin depicting Athena on one side and on the reverse Athena Promachos on Acropolis (By Peter Oluf Brøndsted - http://el.travelogues.gr/travelogue.php?view=206&creator=890384&tag=3, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=66722357).

  

Painting, from 1846, of Acropolis portraying the statue of Athena Promachos as visible from far away, as reported in ancient texts; it shows the great bronze figure carrying a great spear in her right hand (rather than an owl as indicated from copies and coins) (By Leo von Klenze - Neue Pinakothek, Munich, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1387333).

 



11:21 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Parthenon – west end with scaffolding. 



11:21 AM – Athens: Acropolis – spare parts and view back to Propylaia from near Parthenon. 



11:23 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Parthenon – south side. 



MT 11:16 (Don’s 11:23) AM – Athens: Acropolis – Don by Parthenon – south side. 




MT 11:17 (Don’s 11:24) AM – Athens: Acropolis – Don and MT by southwest corner of Parthenon. 



11:26 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Parthenon – southeast corner. 



MT 11:20 (Don’s 11:28) AM – Athens: Acropolis – Don and MT by southeast corner of Parthenon. 



MT 11:20 (Don’s 11:28) AM – Athens: Acropolis – Don and MT by southeast corner of Parthenon. 



11:39 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Parthenon – sculpture with horse and reclining man (Dionysos) on east pediment at southeast corner (telephoto 119 mm). 



11:47 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Parthenon – sculpture with horse and reclining man (Dionysos) on east pediment at southeast corner (telephoto 156 mm). 



11:50 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Parthenon – sculpture with horse and reclining man (Dionysos) on east pediment at southeast corner (telephoto 156 mm).

 

Athens: Parthenon – reconstruction of east pediment (By No machine-readable author provided. Crissov assumed (based on copyright claims). - No machine-readable source provided. Own work assumed (based on copyright claims)., CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=345977).

 According to the Wikipedia entry on Parthenon, “The figures on the corners of the east pediment depict the passage of time over the course of a full day. Tethrippa of Helios and Selene are located on the left and right corners of the pediment respectively.” Helios, the Greek god and personification of the sun, is often depicted driving a horse-drawn chariot across the sky. Selene, the sister of Helios, was the Greek goddess of the moon and is also depicted driving her moon chariot across the heavens. On this pediment, the horses of Helios’ chariot are shown with livid expressions as they ascend into the sky to start the day, whereas Selene’s horses struggle to stay on the pediment scene as the day comes to an end.

tethrippon (plural tethrippa) was a 4-horse chariot. A tethrippon was also a 4-horse chariot race established as an Olympic event in 680 BC with a length of 12 laps around the hippodrome, with sharp turns around the posts at either end.

 

Athens: photo under “East Pediment” in Wikipedia entry on Parthenon with caption: “Part of the east pediment still found on the Parthenon (although part of it, like Dionysos, is a copy)” (By Dorieo - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3156404).


Athens: Parthenon – photo of “Elgin Marbles east pediment” in the British Museum” showing (left to right) arm of unidentified figure, head of horse, reclining Dionysos, Hestia, Dione, and Aphrodite (CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=439402 ).

  


Athens: photo under “See also” at end of Wikipedia entry on Parthenon with caption: “Reclining Dionysos, from the Parthenon east pediment, ca. 447-433 BC” in British Museum, Former Elgin collection (By Unknown, under supervision by Phidias - Marie-Lan Nguyen (User:Jastrow), 2007, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1423312).

  


Athens: photo with caption: “Sculpted horse head on [northeast corner of] eastern pediment of Parthenon, Athens, Greece. This is a copy of the original in the British Museum in London, which accounts for it being in good condition, while those near it have almost weathered away.” (By © Guillaume Piolle, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4696798).

 



11:46 AM – Athens: Acropolis – fragments of Temple of Rome and Augustus east of Parthenon. 



11:49 AM – Athens: Acropolis – fragments of Temple of Rome and Augustus east of Parthenon, with historical marker sign at bottom left and the temple’s architrave just above it. 



11:49 AM – Athens: Acropolis – sign, in Greek and English, for “The Temple of Rome and Augustus”; English text at right reads: 
“East of the Parthenon lay the foundations of a small building attributed by the first excavators of the Acropolis to the temple of Rome and the Roman emperor Octavian Augustus. The association of the foundations with the temple stems from the discovery in the area of many marble architectural members, as well as of the architrave bearing the incised dedicatory inscription. 
“The architectural members indicate that the Temple of Rome and Augustus was of the Ionic order, circular and monopteral—namely that it featured a single circular colonnade made of nine columns (pteron) without a walled room inside (cella). Its diameter measured ca. 8.60 m, and its height reached 7.30 m, up to the conical roof. The construction of the temple is associated with the architect who repaired the Erechtheion in the Roman Period, because the architectural details of its members replicate those of the Erechtheion. It is possible that the temple interior housed statues of Rome and Augustus, although no fragments of sculptures have been identified to date. 
“The temple of Rome and Augustus is the sole Roman temple on the Acropolis and the only Athenian temple dedicated to the cult of the Emperor. The Athenian deme (people) constructed it in order to propitiate Octavian Augustus and reverse the negative climate that characterized the relations of the two parties, as, during the Roman civil wars, the city of Athens had supported his opponent, Marcus Antonius/ 
“The temple is securely dated after 27 B.C., when Octavian was proclaimed Augustus—most probably between 19 and 17 B.C.” 
English captions for the pictures across the top (from left to right) read: 
Top left: “Orthophotomosaic of Acropolis (Acropolis Restoration Service O.P. ‘Information Society’)” with triangle for “You are here” near number 12 (for Temple of Rome an Augustus) just to the right (east) of the Parthenon on the right (east) side of the picture. 
Top center: “The area of the temple of Rome and Augustus (restoration drawing by G.P. Stevens)” 
Below that: “The temple architrave with the dedicatory inscription” 
Top right of center: “The temple of Rome and Augustus (restoration drawing by G. Kawe[rau?])” 
Top at far right: “Portrait statue of Octavian Augustus (Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki)”

The Temple of Rome and Augustus was the sole major architectural supplement to the 5th- and 4th-century BC building complex on the Acropolis.

An architrave (in Classical architecture) is a main beam resting across the capitals at the tops of columns. Those who have given it any attention have often, but not exclusively, seen it as a symbol or Romanization. While the building has largely been viewed either a monument to Roman power or a skillful Athenian subornation of Augustus’ victory into Athenian past glory, it was arguably both. The inscription on the architrave says: “The people [Athenians, dedicated the temple] to the goddess Roma and Caesar Augustus ….”




11:49 AM – Athens: Acropolis – inscribed architrave of Temple of Rome and Augustus with east façade of Parthenon in background. 



11:51 AM – Athens: Acropolis – east façade of Parthenon with architrave of Temple of Rome and Augustus in right foreground. 



11:51 AM – Athens: Acropolis - MT in front of east façade of Parthenon. 

Next, we came to the Erechtheion.


MT 11:46 (Don’s 11:53) AM – Athens: Acropolis – Erechtheion south side, with Porch of Cryatids at left rear (southwest corner), and Ionic portico of east side (mild telephoto 53 mm).

The Erechtheion (or Erechtheum) is an Ionic temple on the north side of the Acropolis that was dedicated to both Athena and Poseidon. It is situated on the most sacred site of the Acropolis, which is said to be where Poseidon left marks of his trident in the rocks and Athena’s olive tree sprouted, in their battle for patronage of the city. The temple as seen today was constructed in 421-406 BC. It is believed to have been a replacement for the temple of Athena Polias (Protectress of the City of Athens) destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC. The sculptor and mason was Phidias, who also built the Parthenon. It derived its name from a shrine dedicated to the legendary Greek hero Erechthonius. (In ancient Greece a hero was the mortal offspring of a human and a god.) Some have suggested that it may have been built in honor of the legendary king Erechtheus, who is said to have been buried nearby. Erechtheus and the hero Erechthonius were often syncretized (blended in identity).

The Erechtheion was associated with some of the most ancient and holy relics of the Athenians. The eastern part of the building was dedicated to Athena Polias and held a statue of the goddess carved in olive wood. The western part served the cult of Poseidon-Erechtheus and held a rock with the marks of Poseidon’s trident and the salt water well called the Erechtheis that resulted from Poseidon’s strike; it also held the altars of the god Hephaistus and the hero Boutes, brother of Erechtheus, as well as the Pandroseion, the sacred precinct of Kekrops’ daughter Pandrosus.

The need to preserve multiple adjacent sacred precincts likely explains the complex design. The main structure consists of up to four compartments, the largest being the east cella, with an Ionic portico on its east end. On the north side, there is another large porch with six columns, and on the south, the famous Porch of the Maidens.

The entire temple was built entirely of white Pentelic marble, with friezes of black limestone that bore sculptures executed in relief in white marble. It had elaborately carved doorways and windows, and its columns were ornately decorated (far more than is visible today). The Erechtheion underwent extensive repairs and reformation for the first time during the 1st century BC, after its catastrophic burning by the Romans. If it was still in use by the 4th century AD, the temple would have been closed during the Roman persecution of pagans (non-Christians). The building was altered decisively during the early Byzantine period, when it was transformed into a church. With this alteration, many architectural features of the ancient building were lost, so that our knowledge of the interior arrangement of the building is limited, It became a palace under Frankish rule and the residence of the Turkish commander’s harem in 1463 during the Ottoman period. In 1827, during the Greek War of Independence (1821-29), the building was bombarded by the Ottomans and severely damaged. It went through a period of restoration from 1977 to 1988.



11:55 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Erechtheion south side, with Porch of Cryatids at left rear (southwest corner), and side view of Ionic portico of east side. 



11:55 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Porch of Cryatids at southwest corner of Erechtheion, showing the four caryatids across its south face (telephoto 105 mm).

Athens: Acropolis – Porch of Cryatids of the Erechtheion, showing all six caryatids (By No machine-readable author provided. Harrieta171 assumed (based on copyright claims). - No machine-readable source provided. Own work assumed (based on copyright claims)., CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=594464).

The Porch of the Maidens, or Porch of the Caryatids, has six draped female figures (caryatids) as supporting columns. A caryatid (Latin form of Ancient Greek: Karyatis, plural karyatides) was a sculpted female figure serving as an architectural support, taking the place of a column or pillar and supporting an entablature on her head; karyatides literally means “maidens of Karyai,” an ancient town on the Peloponnese peninsula that had a temple dedicated to the goddess Artemis. The Erechtheion caryatids are of the type called cephora (“basket bearer”), representing the maidens (priestesses) who carried sacred objects used in the feasts of the goddesses Athena and Artemis. This porch was built to conceal the giant 15-ft beam needed to support the southwest corner over the Kekropion (honoring the mythical king and hero Kekrops), after the building was drastically reduced in size and budget following the onset of the Peloponnesian War in 431 BC.

 

One of the caryatids from the Porch of Cryatids now displayed in the British Museum (By I, Sailko, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17552891).

 In 1800, one of the caryatids and the north column, together with the overlying section of the entablature, were removed by Lord Elgin and were later sold to the British Museum. Elgin attempted to remove a second caryatid, but the statue was smashed and its fragments left behind. It was later reconstructed haphazardly with cement and iron rods. In 1979, that statue and the other four remaining caryatids were removed to the Old Acropolis Museum and since 2007 are now displayed in the Acropolis Museum in Athens, where the reassembled one has now been reunited with a missing foot found in rubble in the 1980s. The original six statues were replaced in situ by exact replicas.



MT 11:49 (Don’s 11:56) AM – Athens: Acropolis – Porch of Cryatids at southwest corner of Erechtheion, showing the four caryatids across its south face (telephoto 73 mm). 



11:58 AM – Athens: Acropolis – Erechtheion south side, with Porch of Cryatids at left rear (southwest corner), and Ionic portico of east side.

Then we headed back toward the west end of the Acropolis in order to exit, not through the Propylaia, but down the southern slope, which was also included in out ticket. 


12:05 PM – Athens: Acropolis – MT (in foreground) heading back toward east end with Propylaia. 



12:10 PM – Athens: Acropolis – view from wall at top of west end down to Theater of Herodes Atticus to southwest, while an attendant showed us how to get to the southern slope, by turning left before the Theater of Herodes Atticus. 



12:10 PM – Athens: Acropolis – view from wall at top down to Theater of Herodes Atticus to southwest (mild telephoto 49 mm).

At the start of the southern slope, we came to the Bronze Foundries.



8161 Thursday, ‎August 8, ‎2019, 12:24 PM – Athens: Acropolis – sign, in Greek and English, for Bronze Foundries; English text (legible here except for glare at lower right corner) reads:
“The area west of the Sanctuary of Asklepios was the site of manufacture in antiquity (5th-4th cent. B.C.). Excavations from 1877 to 2006 have revealed a total of four pits cut into the soft rock (kimelia) of the Acropolis that are connected with the process of casting bronze statues. The two largest pits (A and B [sic! or D?]), depth of 2.80 m, are accessed by stairways and have facilities in their interior. 
“Foundry A to the west, excavated in 1877 and 1963, is defined by the modern wall and has now covered over with earth. Its lower level consists of two facilities. The better-preserved installation, on the southwest side is enclosed by a brick wall and includes a rectangular base of porous stone with rounded corners, plastered over with clay. A clay channel runs around this structure, ending at each of the four corners to spouts for the disposal of the metal waste and the melted wax used in casting. The second facility, on the northeast side, is preserved in stretches. It retains a part of an oval base, a clay channel, and is enclosed by a brick wall. At the wet there is an ancillary chamber with a small pit and a clay channel. At a higher level the remains of a subsequent installation with clay-covered trough, have been revealed. 
“Foundry D to the east, protected under the shed, was excavated in 2006 and has a square base of clay-plastered porous plinths at its center. Its southern section preserves the trace of a mould of a statue, depicting the termination of long garment folds. A brick wall, height 1.30 m, is preserved on both the southern and the eastern sides. On the floor, two clay-covered basins were carved for ancillary purposes. After the casting process was completed, the wax was covered over with earth and the wall that rests on the western part of the Foundry D was built. During the excavation of [the pit?] thousands of mould fragments were collected. 
“The extensive manufacturing activity in the area is [several illegible words] with monuments of the Asklepion [several illegible words] Acropolis according to one view, here was the [several illegible words] statue of Athena Promachos, Phidias’ work, which [several illegible words] Acropolis, was cast.”


Athens: Acropolis – remains of Bronze Foundry on southern slope (By Andrzej Otrębski - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=25494523).

 Phidias’ colossal bronze statue of Athena Promachos was probably made in the bronze foundry situated on the southwest slope of the Acropolis.


12:24 PM (Cropped) – Athens: Acropolis – Top left photo on sign for Bronze Foundries; English part of caption reads: “Foundry A after the excavation of 1963. View from the Acropolis.” 



12:24 PM (Cropped) – Athens: Acropolis – Top right photo on sign for Bronze Foundries; English part of caption reads: “The base of Bronze Foundry D after the excavation of 2006. In the center traces of the mould are visible. View from the south.” 



12:24 PM (Cropped) – Athens: Acropolis – Top center drawing on sign for Bronze Foundries; English part of legend reads: Stoa of Eumenes 1; Asklepeion 2; Ancient Peripatos street 3; “Pelargic Wall” 4; ΗΟΡΟΣ ΚΡΕΝΕΣ Inscription 5; Naiskoi 6; Cistern 7; Archaic Fountain 8; Inscriptions shed 9; Bronze Foundries 10 [shaded red]; Polygonal Wall 11; at lower left is gray area labeled “Visitors passage.”

Internet sources show a photo of the stone with “ΗΟΡΟΣ ΚΡΕΝΕΣ” inscribed on it and say that a marble boundary stone (stelle) with the inscription “horos krenes,” meaning “boundary of the spring” was set up along the Peripatos on the south slope.

The Greek ΝΑΙΣΚΟΙ (Naiskoi) is the plural of naiskos, meaning a shrine or a small temple in classic order with columns or pillars and pediment; the term is also used in ancient Greek cemeteries for grave reliefs or shrines with statues (often of the person who died) and since they lack columns are properly called “grave stellai.”


12:24 PM (Cropped) – Athens: Acropolis – Lower center part of sign for Bronze Foundries; English part of caption at top left in photo reads: “Bronze Foundry B. Excavated by S. Koumanoudis 1877”; caption at top center reads: Bronze Foundry A. Excavated by N. Platon 1963”; cation at top right reads: Bronze Foundry C. Excavated by N. Platon 1963”; caption below that reads: “Bronze Foundry D. Excavated by the 1st Ephorate of Prehistoric and Classical Antiquities, 2006”; English part of Legend for all four foundries reads: “1. Entrance stairways, 2. Southwestern installation, 3. Northeastern installation, 4. Large structure with clay covered trough, 5. Base [shaded gray], 6. Clay channel [shaded reddish brown], 7. Brick wall [shaded brown], 8. Ancillary chamber – small pit [shaded black], 9. Clay structures”; caption for photo at bottom left reads: Attic red-figured kylix (early 5th cent. B.C.) depicting activities in an Athenian bronze foundry. Berlin, Staatliche Museen”; caption for photo at bottom right reads: “A partially restored funnel used to cast the metal into the mould from the 2006 excavation.”

In the pottery of ancient Greece, a kylix (Greek ΚΎΛΙΞ, plural ΚΎΛΙΚΕΣ, kylikes; also spelled cylix) is the most common type of wine-drinking cup. It has a broad, relatively shallow body raised on a stem from a foot. The almost flat interior circle of the bottom of the cup was generally the primary surface for painted decoration in the black-figure or red-figure pottery styles of the 6th and 5ch century BC. The term comes from the Greek kylix, meaning “cup,” which is a cognate of the Latin calix, the source of the English word “chalice.”



12:24 PM – Athens: Acropolis – Bronze Foundries, with sign near visitor walkway and more ruins under glass in foreground; atop the Acropolis at the left is the Temple of Athena Nike. 

Next, we came to ruins tentatively identified as the Temple of Themis.


12:25 PM – Athens: Acropolis – view of wall around upper Acropolis from southern slope near the Temple of Themis (?), with corner of a building atop the Acropolis.

The Temple of Themis is mentioned by Pausanias (2nd century AD): “After the sanctuary of Asclepius, as you go by this way toward the Acropolis, there is a temple of Themis.” Themis was a Titan goddess of divine law and order. (In Greek, the word themis referred to divine law, those  rules of conduct long established by custom; unlike the word nomos, this term was not usually used to describe laws of human decree.) Themis was an early bride of Zeus and his first counsellor. She was often represented seated beside his throne advising him on the precepts of divine law and the rules of fate. She was also a prophetic goddess who presided over the most ancient oracles, including Delphi. In this role, who was the divine voice (themistes) who first instructed mankind in the primal laws of justice and morality.



12:26 PM – Athens: Acropolis – remains of Temple of Themis (?) on southern slope; the stone block on the near corner is inscribed in Greek and English with “Temple of Themis (?).” 



12:26 PM (Cropped) – Athens: Acropolis – stone block inscribed in Greek and English with “Temple of Themis (?).” 



12:26 PM – Athens: Acropolis – more remains of Temple of Themis (?) on southern slope; again, the stone block on the near corner is inscribed in Greek and English with “Temple of Themis (?),” with view further down the slope toward the Temple of Asklepios. 

Continuing down the path on the southern slope, we came to the Temple of Asklepios.


12:27 PM – Athens: Acropolis – Temple of Asklepios on southern slope below the wall around upper Acropolis.

The Sanctuary of Asklepios, the Asklepion, was founded in 420-419 BC for the cult of the healer god (and of his daughter Hygieia). The place where it was built was selected because there was a small spring in the Acropolis rock, a very essential element for the cleaning of patients. The sanctuary consisted of the small Temple of Asklepios and two halls (stoas), one in the Doric style and the other Ionic. The Doric stoa was a two-story building with a façade of 17 Doric columns, built in 300-299 BC. This was used as an infirmary and incubation hall for visitors who stayed overnight at the Asklepion and were miraculously cured. The restoration project for the façade of this stoa includes the reconstruction of three marble columns, together with parts of the epistyle, the Doric frieze, the cornice, and part of the columns of the first floor. A second, smaller Ionic stoa could be found westwards. It served as a guesthouse with four rooms in which the priests and various visitors to the shrine resided. The sanctuary was destroyed in 267 AD by the Heruli and later on was  replaced by a Christian basilica dedicated to the Saints Anargyri, not by chance, since they are considered protectors of health.

A stoa (plural stoai or stoae), in ancient Greek architecture, is a walkway or portico, covered by a roof supported by columns, and was commonly for public use. Usually of the Doric order, lining the side of the building, they created a safe, enveloping, protective atmosphere that combined useful inside and outside space. Later examples were built as two stories and incorporated inner colonnades, usually in the Ionic style.

An epistyle, also known as an architrave, is a massive piece of stone or wood laid immediately on top of the capital of a column or pillar.



12:28 PM – Athens: Acropolis – Temple of Asklepios; the stone block in the foreground is inscribed in Greek and English with “Temple of Asklepios.” 



12:28 PM (Cropped) – Athens: Acropolis – stone block inscribed in Greek and English with “Temple of Asklepios.” 



8168 Thursday, ‎August 8, ‎2019, 12:28 PM – Athens: Acropolis – Temple of Asklepios nestled in rock face on southern slope. 



12:30 PM – Athens: Acropolis – sign, in Greek and English, for “Stoa of Eumenes II” English part of text at lower right reads: “The Stoa of Eumenes is placed between the theater of Dionysos and the Odeion of Herodes Atticus, along the Peripatos (the ancient road around the Acropolis). The king of Pergamon, Eumenes II, donated this Stoa to the Athenian city, during his sovereignty, which endured from 197 B.C. to 159 B.C. This elongated building, 163.00 m. long and 17.65 m. wide, had two storeys. The ground floor façade was formed from a colonnade of 64 doric columns, while the interior colonnade consisted of 32 columns of Ionic order. On the upper storey, the exterior colonnade had the equivalent number of double-semicolumns of Ionic order and the interior columns had the rather rare type of capitals, the Pergamon ones. Nowadays, a visible part of the monument is the north retaining wall, reinforced with buttresses connected by semicircular arches. This wall was constructed in order to hold the north earth embankment in place and to support the Peripatos. Today are also visible: the Krena (spring) included in the north wall, the stylobates of the inner colonnade on the ground floor and the foundation of the exterior colonnade. Besides, a part of the substructure of the east wall of the stoa has also survived, in addition to the west wall, who [sic!] suffered some changes during the Roman period, when the Odeion of Herodes Atticus was erected.” The English part of the caption below the photo at the left reads: “Restored elevation of the east part of the Stoa of Eumenes (M. Lefantzis, 2011).”; the reddish-brown shaded area in the drawing at right, just above the text, shows the location of the Stoa of Eumenes to the right (east) of the Odeion (Theater) of Herodes Atticus. 

Athens: Acropolis – Stoa of Eumenes with Peripatos path in foreground and part of wall around Acropolis in background (By Tomisti - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=39226784).

The Stoa of Eumenes II was a colonnade built on the south slope of the Acropolis by King Eumenes II (197-159 BC) of Pergamon around 160 BC. The 1st-century BC Roman author Vitruvius makes reference to this building when speaking about the purpose of stoai erected near theaters as serving as a refuge for the spectators in inclement weather conditions or as stores for theater props. The Stoa of Eumenes was constructed south of the Askpelion staircase and the Peripatos path, on an artificial terrace. To retain the pathway to the north, an arched retaining wall was constructed along the northern edge of the site. Today, the ancient level of the stoa floor has been restored, with many of the pillars of the ground floor colonnade still in place. Viewers from the lower part of the Theater of Herodes Atticus had access to the ground floor of the two-story gallery. The gallery was in use until the 3rd century AD, when it was destroyed and its material used in the construction of the Valerian wall, which was built around 260 AD, partly along the lines of older walls around the city of Athens and partly as a new fortification to protect the city against Barbarian attacks. In the middle of the 13th century (some sources say 11th or 12th century), the northern retaining wall of the arcade was incorporated into the Rizokastro Wall, which was built around the Acropolis in the first half of the 13th century around the Acropolis rock. The ruins of the Stoa. of Eumenes were uncovered by archaeologists in 1877-78.

A stylobate, in classical Greek Architecture, was a continuous flat pavement supporting  row of columns. Some methodologies use the term stylobate to describe the top step of the crepidoma, the stepped platform upon which colonnades of temple columns are placed (it is the floor of the temple). Others use the term to refer to the entire platform. The platform was built on a leveling course that flattened out the ground immediately beneath the temple.



12:30 PM – Athens: Acropolis – ruins, possibly of the earliest Temple of Dionysos Eleuthereus, across path below (south of) the Theater of Dionysos.

 

Athens: Acropolis – view, from top of Acropolis, of south slope with ruins of Theater of Dionysos, with city of Athens below (By Vislupus - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=73124257).

 

Athens: Acropolis – ruins of Theater of Dionysos (By Nicholas Hartmann - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=52043063); Don added red box to show location of preceding photo.

 The Sanctuary and Theater of Dionysos (or Dionysos Eleuthereus or Dionysus) was a complex occupying a large area on the southeastern slope of the Acropolis. The Theater of Dionysus is perhaps the most ancient theater in the world. The area where it was constructed was the Sanctuary of Dionysus, the god of theater and festivity. According to local myth, the worship of Dionysos Eleuthereos (the Deliverer or Liberator) was introduced to Athens from the people of Eleutherai on the northern border of Attica. This happened in the mid-to late 6th century BC, and along with it the Eleutherai introduced the annual festival of the Great Dionysia of the City (there was also a Rural Dionysia celebrated at another time of the year). At this festival, every March, there were contests between choruses of men and of boys singing dithyrambs (lyric choral songs in honor of Dionysos) and dancing. The performances were held first in a large circular paved area (orchestra), before the altar of the god. Later, a simple non-peripteral distyle in antis temple (shrine) was built, in which a statue of the god was housed. (Only the foundation and part of the stepped platform of this temple have survived.) North of this temple was a circular space, the orchestra, where various events took place during the celebrations of the god Dionysus. The spectators sat on the side of the hill where wooden benches were later added.

Around 500/470 BC, the temporary wooden stands around the orchestra were replaced by an earthen semicircular sloping theatron (auditorium) in which up to 14,000 people could sit or stand. Here the great tragedies and comedies of the 5th and 4th centuries BC were performed as part of contests. The theater was also still used for choral competitions. Around 340 BC, a more elaborate temple was constructed just to the south of the archaic shrine. This may have been commissioned as part of a building program by the Athenian chief magistrate, orator and financial expert Lykourgos around 338-326 BC. Like its predecessor, this temple was a non-peripteral, but it did have a Doric tetrastyle prostyle porch. Around 300 BC, Lykourgos ordered the construction of a monumental theater with 64 concentric tiers of limestone seats radiating fan-wise from the orchestra. Built between 342 and 326 BC, it was the first theater built of stone.

When the drama had taken its final form, Lycurgus, chief magistrate of Athens from 337 BC, renovated the theater completely to seat 16,000 spectators, dressing it with marble. South of the theater and behind the stage, there was the Sanctuary of Dionysus. In the southern wall of the stage was a small stoa, and nearby was the archaic temple of Dionysus. Next to it, a new Doric temple was erected in 340 BC.

During Roman sack of Athens in 86 BC, the theater and sanctuary were heavily damaged, but the damage was repaired abound 60 BC. Sometime in the 1st century AD, the orchestra floor was paved with marble slabs in alternating colors. In 61/62 AD, a new stage was built in honor of Dionysos and the Emperor Nero. The theater was used for Roman gladiatorial spectacles, adding a marble balustrade and metal railing to protect spectators.

The sack of Athens by the Herulians in 267 AD brought the theater life to an end. At the beginning of the 5th century, it was altered to serve as a meeting place of the Assembly of the citizen body. A stoa-like structure was built in front of it. The orchestra area was enclosed by a marble parapet. In 435 AD, an edict of Emperor Theodosius II ordered the closing of all pagan (non-Christian) sanctuaries and temples, bringing worship of Dionysos here to an end. At the end of the 5th century, a Christian basilica was built over the eastern embankment of the theater, and the orchestra was used as the church’s open courtyard. At some point, the church was destroyed, and in the 11th century, the Rizokastro Wall was built, enclosing the lower slopes of the Acropolis and running across parts of the sanctuary. In the early 19th century, a British colonel identified this area as the Sanctuary of Dionysos, and excavations in 1862-86 revealed the essential structures an monuments of the sanctuary.

Architectural terminology related to columns:

A peripteral building (or peripteros) is a style of ancient Greek temple in which the cella (inner chamber) is surrounded by a single row of columns in a colonnade. It is surrounded on all four sides of, creating a four-sided arcade. The adjective and noun are based on the Greek roots peri- (around) and pteron (colonnade).

Thus, non-peripteral would mean a temple without a surrounding colonnade.

A distyle (or distyle building) is a small temple-like building with two columns.

However, distyle in antis means a temple where two columns are set between two antae.

Antae (plural of anta) are square brick columns, basically pillars or posts, on either side of a doorway. The smaller columns between the antae are “columns in antis” (in meaning “between”). Antae are slightly projecting piers that terminate the walls of the cella. They differ from pilasters, which are purely decorative and do not have the structural support function of antae.

A colonnade made up of 4 columns is tetrastyle; of 6, hexastyle; of 8, octastyle, of 9, ennastyle; of 10, decastyle; of 12, dodecastyle.

Prostyle is a type of columnation consisting of free columns in a front portico only and across the full front of a structure.



12:30 PM – Athens: Acropolis – view, from near the east exit, of part of Theater of Dionysos (behind trees at bottom of Acropolis hill), the wall around Acropolis, with top of Parthenon behind the wall and two columns and a portico of the Choregic Monument of Thrasyllos just below the wall. 



8171-0 Thursday, ‎August 8, ‎2019, 12:30 PM (Cropped) – Athens: Acropolis – part of Theater of Dionysos with statue of Menander in foreground.

At the lower east side of the Theater of Dionysos is the statue of Menander (or Menandros). Menander (Greek Μένανδρος, Menandros; c. 342/41 – c. 290 BC) was a Greek dramatist and the best-known representative of Athenian New Comedy. He wrote 108 comedies. Menander found many Roman imitators, including Terence, whom Julius Caesar called “dimidiatus Menander” (Latin dimidiatus meaning “incomplete, imperfect, half”). His plays held a place in the standard literature of Western Europe for over 800 years after his death. Unfortunately, the works of Menander were lost during the Middle Ages, although 23 of the plays were said to still have been available in Constantinople in the 11th century and are known in modernity only in highly fragmented form, much of which was discovered in the 20th century. Only one play, “Dyskolos” (“The Grouch”), which won a prize in the Dionysia in 315 BC, has survived almost entirely.

 


Athens: Acropolis – statue of Menander (By Paweł 'pbm' Szubert (talk) - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=41685489).

 

 

Athens: Acropolis – at right is the statue of Menander on the eastern parodos of the Theater of Dionysos (By George E. Koronaios - Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=83785894). To the left of the statue is a historical marker sign with text in Greek and English; the English part of the text reads:

“The eastern parodos was the main entrance into the theater, through which priests and officials arrived for the theatrical performances during the Dionysian festival of the city. The northern side of this entrance was chosen as the site for the erection of statues honoring the most important dramatic poets, who symbolized the perennial values of classic education and functioned as examples for participants in the theatrical contests.

“The program of building and completion of the new theater during the Lycurgan era (336-324 B.C.) included the erection of the posthumous honorary monument to the three Tragedians (Aeschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides) in the main entrance around 330 BC.

“East of this monument the honorary base and statue of the most important representative of the Bew [sic!, New] Comedy, Menander, was erected in 291-290 B.C. He wrote over 100 plays but won the [Dionysia] contest only a few times. His innovative work focused on ordinary people and he is considered the father of psychological drama. At the age of 51, he drowned while swimming off Piraeus. The monument in his honor was erected immediately after his death while Athens was under the rule of the Macedonian King, Demetrios Poliorketes. The poet is represented seated on an honorary throne, his beardless face mirroring the new fashion introduced by Alexander the Great.

“The ancient base of the statue, which was revealed in 1862, is inscribed with the name of the poet. As well as the signatures of the sculptors, sons of the famous sculptor Praxiteles. The inscription reads: ‘Kefisodotos and Timarchos made it.’ The original statue was copied many times during the Roman era, because of the Romans’ particular admiration for the plays of Menander. The identification of the position and form of this monument permitted its restoration, with the reconstruction of the lost two steps of the bathron, the repositioning of the ancient base, and the didactic use of a cast replica in place of the lost original.”

Based on the Roman-era copies, a cast replica has replaced the lost original statue.

 


Athens: Acropolis – French diagram of Theater of Dionysos in the Time of Perikles (5th century BC) (By Vol de nuit - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=82088333 ).

 A parodos (plural parodoi), in ancient Greek drama, was a passage between the theatron (the auditorium, audience seating area) and skene (the structure at the back of the stage) by which spectators had access to the theater and actors might come and go during the play. Because the chorus made its first entrance into the orchestra (stage), usually beginning the play, their entrance song or ode also came to be known as a parodos.



2:30 PM (Cropped) – Athens: Acropolis – part of Theater of Dionysos with statue of Menander in foreground; two columns and a portico of the Choregic Monument of Thrasyllos just below the wall.

Burrowed into the Acropolis rock above the Theater of Dionysos is a cave that was once sacred to the goddess Artemis. Residents of Athens used to refer to this only as “the hole,” unaware of its significance in ancient and Christian times.

In front of this cave and above it are the remains of the Choregic Monument of Thrasyllos, erected in 320 BC by Thrasyllos of Dekeleia, a judge and sponsor of the contests of the Great Dionysia, when he dedicated the cave to Dionysos. In ancient Greece, it was common for choregic monuments to be built by a choregos (Greek: ΧΟΡΗΓΌΣ), the sponsor of a chorus in the annual dramatic and choral contests of the Great Dionysia festival, to celebrate his team’s victory.

This monument was built in the form of a small temple and fills the opening of the natural cave. Around the natural hollow in the rock, stone was cut away to form a cave 6.2 m deep and 6 m high, just below the south wall of the Acropolis and above the Theater of Dionysos. The rock face was cut back to form a flat vertical surface, and the mouth of the cave was enlarged into a rectangular opening. Over the front of the cave, a marble Doric portico was constructed, 7,7 m wide and 8.4 m high. This portico was an almost exact copy of the west façade of the south wing of the Propylaia, with two monumental door openings with antae to the sides and a central pillar supporting enormous doors and an entablature with eleven olive wreaths above an architrave. (One of the marble pilaster capitals was rediscovered in 1985 in a storeroom of the National Museum in Athens.) On the architrave was an inscription saying: “Thrasyllos, son of Thrasyllos of Dekeleia, set this up, being choregos and winning in the men’s chorus for the tribe of Hippothonthis.” Above the monument, three steps cut into the rock led to a platform on which the bronze tripod awarded as the prize of the contest was displayed. In 270 BC, Thrasyllos’ son Thrasykles enlarged the monument to celebrate similar choregic victories of his own. Then two more inscriptions were added to the architrave, one of which said: “Thrasykles, son of Thrasyllos of Dekeleia, was agonothete [person who directed or presided over great public competitions]. Hippothontis won the boy’s chorus.” Presumably, two more choregic tripods were placed atop the monument at this time. Probably around the 4th century AD, the tripods are thought to have been replaced by or set up on three statues, of which the central one, thought to depict Dionysos, was still standing in the 17th and late 18th centuries before Lord Elgin removed it in 1802 to London, where it is now displayed as one of the “Elgin Marbles” in the British Museum. The other two statues may have been replaced by the two large Corinthian columns, from the Roman period, which were also erected for the display of choregic tripods and still stand above the cave. The monument rests against the Wall of Cimon, a defensive wall surrounding the Acropolis that was built after the Persian Invasion. Its location made it visible to the whole city of ancient Athens.

 

Athens: Acropolis – reconstruction of Choregic Monument of Thrasyllos as it might have appeared in the time of Thrasykles (By Davide Mauro - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=68649033).

Sometime in the Christian era, probably during the period of Ottoman rule (from the mid-15th century until the Greek War of Independence broke out in 1821), the cave of the monument was converted into a Christian chapel dedicated to Panagia Spiliótissa (Greek: ΠΑΝΑΓΊΑ ΣΠΗΛΙΏΤΙΣΣΑ, Our Lady of the Cave). This was a place where mothers brought their sick children.

After the construction of the small church in the cave behind the façade of the monument, the monument was preserved almost intact until 1827 with some alterations, such as the blocking of its two openings with walls. The monument collapsed when hit by cannon fire in 1827, during the siege of the Acropolis by the Ottoman Turks during the Greek War of Independence. Three of its structural parts are standing; the rest lie on the ground. The taller of the two columns above the monument has a large hole, probably caused by the Turkish bombardment. The monument was much more elaborate than the surviving parts suggest.

Following the establishment of the Greek state in 1834, the Archaeological Society announced the restoration of the monument. However, a large part of its marble stone was controversially used in the 19th century for the restoration of the Byzantine-style Russian Orthodox Church of Panaghia Sotiras tou Nikodimou on Filellinon Street. Restoration work finally began in 2003. Now the main source of the monument’s pre-1827 condition are drawings and descriptions from a detailed study of the site by Stuart and Revett in 1751-53.

 

Athens: Acropolis – reconstruction of Choregic Monument of Thrasyllos from 1751-53 study (By James Stuart, Nicholas Revett - http://digi.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/diglit/stuart1825bd2/0117?sid=807c0fd7a9ebc5da7395685ab9ddf151, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=34290206).

 

Athens: Acropolis – Choregic Monument of Thrasyllos, current state of restoration work (By George E. Koronaios - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=87633115).

  

Athens: Acropolis – two Corinthian columns above the Choregic Monument of Thrasyllos (By Tomisti - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=48017240).

 


12:34 PM – Athens: Acropolis – sign, in Greek and English, for “Ancient Roads – Church of St. Paraskevi”; English text at bottom right reads: 
“Three ancient roads (1,3,7) meet outside the southeast corner of the Sanctuary of Dionysos. The first road (1) connected Olympieion with the South Slope of the Acropolis and the Sacred Rock. The second (3), oriented in southeast-northwest direction, came from the north fringes of the city and ended up at the east entrance (parodos) of the Theater of Dionysos. In its course along the east precinct wall of the Sanctuary of Dionysos, it joined the end of the Street of the Tripods (6) in front of the propylon of the Sanctuary of Dionysos. The third road (7), from a southwest direction, probably crossed the other two outside the southeast corner of the Sanctuary of Dionysos, where the remnants of a small roadside shrine (8) of the first half of the 5th c. BC, made of porous stone, have been revealed. It was dedicated to an unknown deity, perhaps Hecate or Hermes. 
“South of the precinct wall and the roadside shrine, the ruins of a single-nave church, dedicated to St. Paraskevi (9), have been found. Its floor was composed of ancient marble spoils and remains of wall paintings were still preserved on its side walls. The basilica, which appears for the first time on a plan by the Venetian [unclear] Ver[na?]da, in 1687, had three building phases from the late Byzantine times to 1650. It had probably suffered extensive damages during the siege of the Acropolis in 1827. In its place a small chapel was built, around 1860, as a remembrance of the earlier building phases. Today, the remnants of the second phase of the 17th century are preserved.” 



12:34 PM (Cropped) – Athens: Acropolis – sign, in Greek and English, for “Ancient Roads – Church of St. Paraskevi”; diagram at top left with English legend that reads: 1 = Ancient road, 2 = The precinct wall of the Sanctuary of Dionysos, 3 = Ancient road, 4 = Classical Monument, 5 = Propylon of the Sanctuary of Dionysos, 6 = Street of the Tripods, 7 = Ancient road, 8 = Small roadside Shrine, 9 = Chapel of St. Paraskevi; the wide passage across the bottom of the diagram is labeled “Pedestrian Zone Dionysiou Areopagitou”; highlighted in red at the intersection of roads 1, 3, and 7 is the Chapel of St. Paraskevi (9); and the east “Entrance” is highlighted with a red triangle. 



12:34 PM (Cropped) – Athens: Acropolis – sign, in Greek and English, for “Ancient Roads – Church of St. Paraskevi”; drawing at top right with English caption that reads: “Conjectural reconstruction-drawing of the South Slope of the Acropolis in the beginning of the 5th c. BC, according to M. Karres” (with numbers from the same legend); the line down from number 8 in the foreground leads to a photo (between this drawing and the English text) of the remains of the small roadside shrine, and the photo and drawings to the left of that photo are of the Church of St. Paraskevi at various stages in its history.


After reaching the east exit, we headed back into the Pláka District, toward our hotel. Once again, we passed the Choregic Monument of Lysikrates


12:50 PM– Athens: Choregic Monument of Lysikrates.

The Choragic Monument of Lysikrates, also called the Lantern of Demosthenes, is located on a small square of the same name (Plateía Lysikrátous), on Lisikratous street on the west side of Tripodon street, in the east of the Pláka district near the Acropolis. It was erected by the choregos Lysikrates, a wealthy patron of musical performances in the theater of Dionysus to commemorate the prize in the dithyramb contest of the city Dionysia in 335/334 BC, of Which performance he was liturgist. This monument is a cylindrical structure built on a square podium out of porous stone (2.93 m) with six Corinthian columns of Pentelic marble, rising to a circular marble dome, and panels of Hymettian marble. It is the first known use of the Corinthian order of columns on the exterior of a building in Greece. The dome has an elegant finial of acanthus leaves that supported the winner’s bronze trophy. Despite Lord Elgin’s attempts to remove it to England, it is the  city’s only intact choragic monument. Lord Byron wrote some of his poem “Childe Harold” sitting in this monument during his final visit to Athens in 1810.

In ancient Greek theater, the choregos (from χορόσ “chorus” + ἡγεῖσθαι “to lead”) was a wealthy Athenian citizen who assumed the public duty (choregiai) of financing the preparation of the chorus and other aspects of dramatic production.

A dithyramb was an ancient Greek hymn sung and danced in honor of Dionysus, the god of wine and fertility.



1:00 PM – Athens: Choregic Monument of Lysikrates, with corner of Acropolis above it and MT on sidewalk in foreground. 

After finding an Alpha Bank with an ATM, we bought Don two apples at a fruit store. Then we went up a narrow (street?) with many steps upward to find a restaurant which the lady at the linen store the day before had told us about; we thought she said it was named “Spira.” The “street” ran right through a restaurant, where we asked if this was “Spira,” and a person who worked there said yes. We were somewhat confused when we saw signs there for “Cave of the Acropolis.” They also gave us their business card, for the “Cave of Acropolis Greek Tavern.”


Athens: business card for the “Cave of Acropolis Greek Tavern” at “24 Thrasillou St.” in the Pláka. However, the email address and website URL on the card had “spilia-akropolis.gk.” 

Later, this card provided the solution to our quandary. When we later went to the website www.spilia-akropolis.gk, which had both English and Greek versions, we found that ΣΠΗΛΙΑ ΤΗΣ ΑΚΡΟΠΟΛΕΩΣ, Spilia tis Akropoleus, in Greek means Cave of the Acropolis. 


Athens: other side of business card for the restaurant showing “Cave of Acropolis” on a banner under a (somewhat misleading) picture of the Parthenon (part of the restaurant’s logo) on “θρασυλλου” (Thrasyllou) St. in the Pláka, only a short distance northeast of the “Θέατρο του Διονύσου” (Theater of Dionysos) and only about one block west of the Choregic Monument of Lysikrates. 



1:28 PM – Athens: Cave of Acropolis Greek Tavern. – MT washing her hands at a sink with faucets coming out of wine jugs. 


Don found Thrasyllou St. on a map in his guidebook, and a waiter told us how to go to Adrianou St. to head toward the Cathedral. 


1:28 PM – Athens: southcorner of Acropolis from near Cave of Acropolis Greek Tavern; sign on gate, in Greek and English, says: “Please Do Not Enter Performance Works – Archaeological sites.” 

Then we headed north across the Pláka district toward the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and our hotel. 


MT 2:04 (Don’s 2:11) PM – Athens: narrow street in Pláka district. 

When we approached the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, we noticed an impressive bronze statue (which turned out to be of Constantine XI) in a garden in the square in front of the church. 


2:22 PM – Athens: bronze statue (of Constantine XI); inscription at right seems to say in Greek: “Konstantinos [Ig?] Pllliologos 9. 2. 1404 29. 5. 1453”; to the left (partially hidden by greenery) is a quotation from his final speech.

An Internet search for “Konstantinos [Ig?] Pllliologos 9. 2 .1404   29. 5. 1453” yielded a hit at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constantine_XI_Palaiologos for Constantine XI Palaiologos (8 February 1405-29 May 1453), also known by his full name Constantine XI Dragases Palaiologos (Greek: Κωνσταντῖνος Δραγάσης Παλαιολόγος, Kōnstantinos Dragasēs Palaiologos) or just Dragaš Palaeologus, the last Emperor of the Byzantine Empire (1448-53) and Autocrat of the Romans. His death in battle at the Fall of Constantinople in 1453 marked the end of the Byzantine Empire, an institution tracing its origin to Constantine the Great’s foundation of Constantinople as the Roman Empire’s new capital in 330 AD. The Fall of Constantinople to the Ottomans also marked the definitive end of the Roman Empire, founded by Augustus almost 1,500 years earlier. The Wikipedia entry includes the following photo of “Statue of Constantine XI in Athens” in front of the same background with inscription.

  

Athens: statue of Constantine XI in 2011 (By Кардам - http://www.aviewoncities.com/gallery/showpicture.htm?key=kvegr0321, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=16749903).

The statue of Constantine XI is almost hidden among the greenery at the west end of Mitropoleos Square opposite the fabulous Metropolitan Church. The tremendous sculpture shows the hero in full armor brandishing a sword with his upraised right hand.

According to the Greek City Times.com (https://greekcitytimes.com/2020/06/09/statue-of-the-last-byzantine-emperor-is-unveiled-in-piraeus/), in June 2020, a statue of Constantine XI was “unveiled in Athens … in the square of the Holy Metropolis Church in Piraeus (Athens)” (photos show it identical to Don’s except that the statue is free-standing in front of and to the left of the main entrance of the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens at the east end of the square). Constantine XI is remembered not only for being the last Emperor of the Byzantine Empire, who put up a brave last stand against the Ottomans of Sultan Mehmet II, but also for his last speech to his officers and allies before the Fall of Constantinople in 1453. Today, Emperor Constantine XI is considered a national hero in Greece.

The “new” statue of Constantine XI, in its new place by the entrance of the Cathedral, has been placed on a truly new base with the same quotation from his last speech that was previously on the stone monument behind the statue.



2:22 PM – Athens: Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens – main façade and bell towers from the Metropolitan Square with statue of Damaskinos (1891-1949), Archbishop of Athens, in left foreground.

The Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens (Greek: Καθεδρικόσ Ναόσ Ευαγγελισμού τησ Θεοτόκου, romanized Kathedrikós Naós Evangelismoú tis Theotókou, meaning Cathedral of the Annunciation of the Mother of God) is popularly known as the Mitrópoli or Mētrópolis. It is the cathedral church of the Archbishopric of Athens and all Greece. When Athens became the capital of Greece in 1834, a cathedral was needed here. Its construction began in 1842, using marble from 72 demolished churches to build its immense walls. It was completed in 1862 and dedicated to the annunciation of the Mother of God. It is a three-aisled, domed basilica that measures 40 m (130 ft) long, 20 m (65 ft) wide, and 24 m (80 ft) high. It has three aisles, a dome over the crossing, and twin bell towers on the west. Over its 20 years of construction, it was designed by three different architects in a mixed Romanesque-Renaissance-Byzantine style. Its 19th-century architecture is not generally admired, especially when compared to the small 12th-century Byzantine church Panagia Gorgoepikoos (Our Lady Who Swiftly Hears), also known as the Agios Eleftherios (Church of St. Eleftherios) or Kikrí Mitrópoli (Little Metropolis), located just a few feet away.

The square in front of the Cathedral is called Plateia Mitropoleos (Metropolitan Square).

Archbishop Damaskinos Papandreou (1891-1949) was the archbishop of Athens and all Greece from 1941 until his death. He was also the regent of Greece between the pull-out of the German occupation force in 1944 and the return of King George II to Greece in 1946. During the German occupation, he frequently clashed with the German authorities and the quisling government, and he formally protested the German effort to exterminate Jews in Greece, writing that he and others of the Orthodox faith followed the words of St. Paul that “there is neither Jew nor Greek.”



2:22 PM – Athens: Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens – main façade and bell towers from the Metropolitan Square (mild telephoto 44 mm) [Note that the statue of Constantine XI had not yet been moved near the entrance at this time.] 

From the Cathedral, we knew our way (to the left) back to the linen store we had visited the day before, so we could buy more gift bags as souvenirs. 


2:25 PM – Athens: linen store – fine items on shelves. 



2:25 PM – Athens: linen store – other fine items hanging in store.

On our way back to our hotel, we stopped at the Bazar cash-and-carry store to buy yogurts and other items. 

Back at the Best Western Plus Amazon hotel, Don took a shower, using a special microfiber washcloth from our Camino trips, since the hotel linens had none. Then he helped MT identify some of her photos. 

Then, on MT’s iPhone, we looked up online the Byzantine and Christian Museum, which we hoped to visit the next day, and the Catholic Cathedral of Dionysus, for mass times on the weekend. However, we also considered that we could go to mass at the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral or at the small Orthodox chapel across the street from our hotel. 

Then Don worked on his own photos.

 



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