This
post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's
notes from our cruise in 2019. When information from other sources is added—for
further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off
in a text box (as this one).
Most
of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption
indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT”
placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such
as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification,
indicate that source in the caption.
We
woke at 5:45 am and room service breakfast arrived at 6:00.
The Viking Daily newsletter gave the weather forecast: “Cloudy 80°F / 27° C.”
The Viking Star was scheduled to arrive at Santorini at 7 am.
The Viking Daily newsletter gave
the following description for “Santorini (Thíra), Greece”:
“Gleaming villages perched on black
rock make Santorini one of the most visually arresting islands in the Aegean.
Its whitewashed capital of Thíra perches on a cliff 1,300 feet above the sea;
enjoy spectacular views of this magnificent city on a hill from our anchorage
in turquoise waters. Dating to the early Bronze Age, Thíra’s winding streets
are a delight to explore and its charming cafés invite lingering respites in
the Cyclades sun. Not to be upstaged, the island and its surrounding islets
also offer opportunities to experience fully the natural volcanic splendor,
from thermal spring soaks to caldera hikes. And despite the harsh volcanic
soil, Santorini’s viticulture is rich and thriving and boasts a 5,000-year
history.”
Viking map of Santorini and
other islands in the municipality of Santorini; the key is as follows: 1 = Athinos
Port, 2 = Mt. Profitis Ilias, 3 = Ancient Thira, 4 = Red Beach, 5 = The [center
of the] Volcano, 6 = Oia, 7 = Akrotiri, 11 = Hospital; US = US Embassy in
Athens, BR = British Embassy.
Santorini (Greek: ΣΑΝΤΟΡΊΝΗ, pronounced [sando’rini]), officially Thíra (Greek: ΘΉΡΑ)
and classic Greek Thera, is an island in the southern Aegean Sea, about 200 km
(120 mi) southeast of Greece’s mainland. This name change leads to dome
confusion, since the modern capital of the island, Firá (Greek: ΦΗΡΆ)
derives its name from an alternative pronunciation of Thíra, the ancient name
for the island itself. The present municipality of Thera (officially
Thirá, pop, 15,500), also called the municipality of Santorini, covers all settlements
on the islands of Santorini and Therasia, as well as the uninhabited islands of
Nea Kameni, Palia Kameni, Aspronisi, and Christiana. It was formed in 2011 by
the merger of the former municipalities of Oia and Thera. Oia is now called a community
(ΚΟΙΝΌΤΗΤΑ, koinótita) within the municipality of
Thera.
In Greece, a municipality
(Δήμοι, romanized dimoi) is the lowest level of
government. Thirteen administrative regions form the second-level unit of
government. The regions consist of 74 regional units, which are then divided
into municipalities. The municipalities may be subdivided into municipal
units, which are further subdivided into municipal communities and local
communities, which are simply called communities (ΚΟΙΝΌΤΗΤΕΣ, koinótites).
Santorini (Thíra) is the
southernmost member of the Cyclades group of islands. It is the largest island
of a small, semicircular archipelago that bears the same name and is the
remnant of a volcanic caldera. (A caldera is a large cauldron-like hollow that
forms shortly after the emptying of a magma reservoir in a volcanic eruption.)
The island was the site of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded
history, which occurred about 3,600 years ago. The devastating volcanic
eruption of Thera around 1600 BC, known as the Minoan eruption, was the most
famous single event in the Aegean before the fall of Troy. Before that, the
caldera formed a nearly continuous ring with the only entrance between the tiny
island of Aspronisi and Thera. The island is the result of repeated sequences
of shield volcano construction followed by caldera collapse. The inner coast
around the caldera is a sheer precipice of more than 300 m (980 ft) drop at its
highest, with the main towns perched on the crest.
Satellite view of Santorini caldera.
The large island to the east is Thera, with Aspronisi and Therasia making up
the rest of the caldera ring, clockwise. In the center is the larger island Nea
Kameni and the smaller Palia Kameni (By NASA - http://photojournal.jpl.nasa.gov/catalog/PIA02673Transferred
from English Wikipedia ;, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=188759).
After the Minoan eruption, Santorini remained unoccupied throughout the rest of the Bronze Age, during which time the Greeks took over Crete. After the Bronze Age, Thera was ruled by the Romans, as were other Greek territories. When the Roman Empire was divided, the island passes to the eastern side known as the Byzantine Empire.
The name Santorini first appears around
1153-54 AD as “Santurin.” In the 13th century, it took the name Santorini, which
was a contraction of Santa Irini (Saint Irene), from the name of the patron
saint of the island and the ancient Early Christian church (cathedral) of
Perissa (a village 13 km southeast of Firá).
In the 14th through 18th centuries,
Santorini was frequently subjected to Ottoman and Venetian raids but was
reconquered by the Byzantines. Following the outbreak of the Greek War of Independence
on the Greek mainland in 1821, Santorini became part of the fledgling Greek
state.
Santorini’s primary industry is tourism.
Agriculture also forms part of its economy, and the island sustains a small but
flourishing wine industry, based on the indigenous Assyrtiko grape variety.
White varieties also include two other Aegean wines Athiri and Aidáni, whereas
red varieties include mavrotragano and mandilaria.
The traditional architecture
of Santorini is similar to that of the other Cyclades, with low-lying cubical
houses, made of local stone and whitewashed or limewashed with various volcanic
ashes used as colors.
Santorini has two ports:
Athinios (Ferry Port) and Skala (Old Port). Cruise ships anchor off Skala, and
passengers are transferred by local boatmen to shore at Skala, where Firá is accessed
by cable car, on foot, or by donkey.
According to the Viking Daily newsletter, the sunrise was at 6:27 am. Unfortunately, this meant that our first views of Santorini were toward the rising sun in the east, making photos difficult
Tuesday, August 6, 2019, 6:37 AM – Santorini: view from our balcony of
shoreline to east with town of Thíra on precipice.
6:37 AM – Santorini: view from our balcony of with
town of Thíra on precipice (telephoto 312 mm).
6:42 AM – Santorini: view from our balcony of center
of town of Thíra on hilltop with winding footpath/donkey trail up side of hill
from Skala Port (telephoto 119 mm).
The Viking Star arrived at Santorini a little before 7 am. After the ship dropped anchor offshore, Don took some more photos.
6:45 AM – Santorini: view from our balcony of shoreline
to east with town of Thíra on precipice.
6:45 AM – Santorini: view from our balcony of
shoreline to northeast with another part of town of Thíra on precipice.
6:46 AM – Santorini: view from our balcony of
center of town of Thíra on hilltop with winding footpath/donkey trail up side of
hill from Skala Port (telephoto 156 mm).
Our optional shore excursion “The Many Flavors of Santorini” was originally scheduled for 10 am; so Don had planned to run on the track around Deck 2 before that. However, the Viking Daily newsletter showed that the time was changed to 7:15 am (we were told this change was due to the fact that 6 cruise ships were in the port that day). The newsletter also said: “Today, all Santorini shore excursions meet on board the ship first, either in the Star Theater or in The Restaurant, as indicated above. Please note that the meeting time on board the ship will not necessarily be your departure time. As we will be using local tender boats of varying sizes today to transfer guests from the ship over to the Santorini’s Athinios Port (where all the shore excursions begin), we ask all guests on Viking shore excursions to please wait patiently onboard, in either the Star Theater or The Restaurant, until such time as we are ready for your specific excursion group to proceed to the tender disembarkation gangway, on Deck A. Please do not come directly to the Deck A gangway, but meet only at the time and in the place indicated above.”
So we went to the meeting place in the Theater at 7:15 and boarded the tender boat around 7:30.
The Viking Daily newsletter
described the 6.5-hour shore excursion “The Many Flavors of Santorini”
as follows:
“The Breathtaking Wonders of a
Volcanic Island
“View a remarkably preserved ancient
city, visit villages perched on a caldera’s rim and toast it all at a winery.
At Akrotiri, uncover a Minoan city frozen in ash, astonishing archaeologists
with its multilevel houses, richly colored frescoes and advanced drainage.
Sample Santorini’s wines at the Gavales Winery in Megalochori, where the owner
invites you into his canava, or wine-making cave. For lunch, sample sumptuous
mezedes, or Greek tapas. Take in stunning island and sea views from a ridge of
red rock in Oia, the most serene place on Santorini. Here you will have time to
explore narrow warrens and charming shops, or linger in the cobblestone squares
of Thíra. To return to the ship, descend to the pier by cable car using the
provided ticket.”
7:37 AM – Santorini: on board the tender boat
(capacity 160 passengers) that pulled up alongside the Viking Star.
7:39 AM – Santorini: leaving the Viking Star on the
tender boat as another tender approached the open door of Deck A on lower side
of the ship.
7:42 AM – Santorini: heading south on board the
tender boat, looking back at the Viking Star and another cruise ship.
The
tender boat took us south to Athinios Port, where we met our guide
Alexandra and took a bus to Oia.
7:48 AM – Santorini: Athinios Port – busses waiting
for us.
Santorini: Athinios Port (By Olaf Tausch - Own work, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30909391).
Santorini: road to and from Athinios Port (By Lourakis - Own work, CC BY-SA
4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=50924814).
Don took some photos from the bus window on the way to Oia.
8:07 AM – Santorini: view, through bus window on
way to Oia, of two small islands (Palia Kameni on left and Nea Kameni on right)
in center of caldera, with either larger island of Thirasia or Oia in background.
8:13 AM – Santorini: view, through bus window on
way to Oia, of vineyard with vines wrapped around on the ground.
8:13 AM – Santorini: view, through bus window on
way to Oia, of vineyard with vines wrapped around on the ground.
8:13 AM – Santorini: view, through bus window on
way to Oia, of vineyard with vines wrapped around on the ground.
Then
we stopped in Oia.
8:45 AM – Santorini: Oia – leaving bus parking
with church in distance.
Oia (Greek: Οία, pronounced [‘i.a],
like ee-yuh) is a small village and former community (pop. 1,545) on the islands
of Santorini (Thíra) and Therasia. Except for 1840-51, Oia was an independent
community, Dimos Oias (ΔΉΜΟΣ ΟΊΑΣ) from 1834 to 1997, when it was combined
with Therasia to form the rural community of Oia. Since 2011, it has been part
of the municipality of Santorini. It covers the whole island of Therasia and
the northwesternmost part of Santorini. Oia was previously known as Apano Meria
(Greek: ΑΠΆΝΩ ΜΕΡΙΆ or ΕΠΆΝΩ ΜΕΡΙΆ, "upper
side"), a name that still occurs locally as Pano Meria, and inhabitants
are still called Apanomerites (Greek: ΑΠΑΝΩΜΕΡΊΤΕΣ). The Ancient Greek Oia was one of the two harbors of
ancient Thera and was located in the southeast of the island, where Kamari is
now.
The settlement of Oia had been
mentioned in various travel reports before the beginning of Venetian rule in 1207. Agios Nikolaos Kasteli (ΚΑΣΤΈΛΙ ΤΟΥ ΑΓΊΟΥ ΝΙΚΟΛΆΟΥ), also called Apanomeria (ΚΑΣΤΈΛΙ ΤΟΥ ΑΓΊΟΥ ΝΙΚΟΛΆΟΥ), was one of the 5 local citadels. Its
residential keep, Goulas, is now in the oldest part of the town, on its
southwestern edge. From the 16th to 19th centuries, the settlement was designated
Apanomeria on maps. The name was changed to Oia in the second half of the 19th
century. Oia reached the peak of prosperity in the late 19th and early 20th
centuries, when it flourished as a result of seaborne trade throughout the
Mediterranean. In 1890, this village had approximately 2,500 residents and approximately
130 sailing ships, making it the 3rd largest fleet in Greece. However, the
arrival of steamships and the concentration of shipping at the Piraeus port of
Athens caused the town’s seagoing trade to collapse. The 2-story captains’
houses built on the highest part of the village are a reminder of its former
affluence. Part of the town was destroyed by the 1956 earthquake. The
earthquake was followed by emigration, and in 1977 Oia had only 306
inhabitants. Then the village was redeveloped into an attractive tourist town
and is known as a “picture perfect” town.
The village of Oia is located on top
of a hill, at about 150 m (490 ft) elevation and known as the “Eagles Nest.” It
is built on the steep slope of the caldera, and the houses and restaurants are
built into niches carved into the caldera on the seaward side. Its paths are
very narrow and hence get congested during the tourist season. There are narrow
passageways and a central square. The idyllic surroundings of the town have a
complex of whitewashed, blue-domed
churches and charming, traditional Cycladic houses and cave houses that are
carved into the rock face on top of the cliff.
The architecture of Oia
typifies the whitewashed houses of the Cyclades, in many cases built directly
into niches that are called cave houses, used by ships’ crews, on the lip of
the volcanic crater, between which are narrow alleys and blue-roofed churches
with cupolas. The wealthy ship captains of the late 19th century built
Neoclassical mansions. These houses were built in succession, one above the other.
From 1976 to 1991, a program of preservation and development sought to
preserve, restore, and find new uses for selected houses and architectural ensembles
representative of traditional Greek architecture. Many of the simple seamen’s
houses on the edge of the caldera became guest houses, hotels, and restaurants.
The town is noted for its white
and blue domed houses. The houses are painted in white lime water so that
rainwater that falls over it runs down and can be collected. The other reason
for painting the houses white is for aesthetic purposes. Another explanation
given is that, during the Ottoman rule of Greece, which lasted for over 400
years, Greeks were not allowed to fly their white flag. In defiance, the people
of Oia painted their entire housing complex in white with domes giving the
village an effective white perspective and elegance.
Also impressive are the “cave
houses” (sometimes called cliff houses) built in niches carved into the
slopes of the caldera. These surprising little houses can be found all over the
island, but in Oia you can see them from the inside as well, by visiting one of
the little shops or choosing a traditional-style hotel that now make use of the
caves. A terrible volcanic eruption in the 17th century BC created the possibility
to build these houses almost at no expense. A thick layer of pumice covering
the island provided insulation, keeping them warm in winter and cool in summer.
In previous centuries, seamen could afford having a house only of that type,
but the cave houses were the ones that survived the earthquake of 1956 with no
damage. Today the cost of such a cave with a view of the caldera is enormous.
8:45 AM – Santorini: Oia – leaving bus parking
with church in distance; a “cavana” (wine cellar) in foreground and a white
church with blue dome in distance.
Churches in the village of
Oia include: Saint Nikolaos Peramataris, Zoodochos Pigi, Anastaseos (or Anastasis
[Resurrection in Greek], Church of the Resurrection), Agios Spiridonas (Saint
Spyridon), Saints Hephtapaides, and Panaghia Platsani.
The area of Oia, including
neighboring villages, hosts around 70 churches. Some of them have been built,
and others have been excavated just like the cave houses. This large number of
churches in such a small region is due to the former maritime life of its
inhabitants. People used to build churches in order to ensure that God would
favor them with safe journeys. In particular, the relatives of the sailors and
the captains, mainly their parents and wives, promised to erect a church to a
saint so that their loved ones would come back safe. The sailor and captains
also used to build churches promised to a saint because they has managed to
survive bad weather or other dangerous situations. Therefore, most of these
churches are privately owned, passed down for generations within the family of
the original builder.
8:49 AM – Santorini: Oia – a different white church,
Panagia Platsani, with blue dome and belfry with 6 bells.
The Ekklisia Panagia Platsani (Church
of Akathist Hymn of the Virgin Mary Platsani), a majestic Greek Orthodox church
on main square in Oia, was originally constructed inside the walls of the
Castle of Oia at the edge of the village. However, the church was rebuilt in
its current location, on more stable ground in the village center, after the
1956 earthquake had destroyed the original church. It has white walls, a traditional
blue dome, and a bell tower with six bells. Above the entry portal is a vibrant
gold mosaic. It is one of the richest churches in Santorini with many icons, two
of which are the miraculous icons of the Virgin Mary.
The original church came into existence
when the townspeople decided to build it to honor the icon of the Virgin Mary that
was found in the sea by a fisherman. From the church’s original location, an
icon of the Virgin Mary could overlook the sea, where her spirit could bless
all vessels and seamen departing for their long trips.
Panagia (Greek: ΠΑΝΑΓΊΑ,
fem. of panágios, pan- + hágios, the All-Holy, or the Most Holy), also transliterated
Panaghia or Panajia, in Medieval and Modern Greek, is one of the titles of the
virgin Mary, used especially in Eastern Catholicism and Orthodox Christianity.
Most Greek churches dedicated to the
Virgin Mary are called Panagia, since Mary is
considered the holiest of all human beings and therefore of higher
status than the saints.
The church is dedicated to the
Akathist Hymn of the Most Holy Theotokos (Virgin Mary). Photography inside the
church is not permitted. In 626 D, countless hordes of Avari and Persians were
besieging Constantinople, but its few defenders, inspired by Patriarch Sergios
and assisted by the Virgin Mary, managed to defeat the invaders. After the
victory, all the people of Constantinople gathered in the church of Vlaherne and
chanted all night long a hymn to the Virgin Mary to thank her for the
miraculous saving of the city. People do not sit down at all, hence the name of
the hymn “Akathistus” (Standing). The name “Platsani” comes from the words
“plats plats” (meaning “splash splash”), which was the sound the famous icon of
the Virgin Mary in the church made when it was discovered by fishermen.
The front courtyard and village square,
known as Nikolau Nomikou Square or Oia Caldera Square, is the site of annual celebrations
and occasional weddings. The lampposts in the square look like blue-and-white
candy canes.
MT 8:48 AM – Santorini: Oia – Panagia Platsani, with
blue dome and belfry with 6 bells.
8:49 AM – Santorini: Oia – mosaic over entrance of that
church; at the bottom of the icon is “ΙΈΡΟΣ ΝΑΟΣ ΠΑΝΑΓΙΑΣ ΤΟΥ ΑΚΑΘΙΣΤΟΥ ΥΜΝΟΥ” (Holy
Temple of the Akthanistus Hymn) (telephoto 156 mm).
Panagia is also the term
for a particular type of icon on the Theotokos (literally “God-bearer”—a title
of Mary the mother of Jesus), wherein she is facing the viewer, usually
depicted full length with her hands in the orans position (praying with
outstretched arms) and with a medallion showing the image of Christ as a child
in front of her chest, This medallion symbolically represents Jesus within the
womb of the Virgin Mary at the moment of the Incarnation. As with most Orthodox
icons of Mary, the letters ΜΡ ΘΥ (short for ΜΗΤΗΡ ΘΕΟΥ, Mother of God) are usually placed on the upper left
and right of her halo.
8:55 AM – Santorini: Oia – wider view of that church.
8:55 AM – Santorini: Oia – view, to left, of town on
cliff overlooking sea.
MT 8:49 AM – Santorini: Oia – view, to left,of town
on cliff overlooking sea (telephoto 67 mm).
8:56 AM – Santorini: Oia – view, to right, of town on cliff
overlooking sea.
MT 8:53 AM – Santorini: Oia – view, to right, of town
on cliff overlooking sea.
8:58 AM – Santorini: Oia – another, smaller, white
church, Church of the Holy Cross, with blue dome and belfry with only 3 bells, about 50 m from Ekklisia
Panagia Platsani.
Santorini: Oia – Church of the
Holy Cross, with blue dome and ropes leading to three bells in belfry (By
Norbert Nagel - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=38152693).
9:00 AM – Santorini: Oia – barrel roof of another
white church with 2 belfries, each with one bell), overlooking the sea.
9:00 AM – Santorini: Oia – two more white churches
with blue domes (St. Spyridon with blue-domed bell tower and behind it Anasteseos,
with its pink belfry) and three more blue domes in distance, possibly with
Thirasia island across the caldera in distance (horizontal).
The most photographed blue-domed
churches are St. Spyridon and Anasteseos. They are commonly featured on
postcards, refrigerator magnets, and other souvenirs. Although often referred to
as the “Blue Dome Church,” it is actually two churches, both built at the edge
of the cliffs right next to each other. They are normally viewed and photographed
from above, since access is through private property that is gated and blocked
to trespassers.
The church of Agios Spiridonas
(Greek: ἍΓΙΟΣ ΣΠΥΡΊΔΩΝ, Saint Spyridon) is dedicated to
St. Spyridon (c. 270-348 AD), who is honored in both Eastern and Western Christian
traditions. The church of Anasteseos (Greek for Resurrection) is
dedicated to the Resurrection of Jesus Christ.
Santorini: Oia – Anasteseos church
with pink belfry in foreground and church of St. Spyridon below at left with its
blue domed bell tower; not the usual view of these churches (By Александр
Спиридонов, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=60273887).
Santorini: Oia – view, from
below, of Anasteseos church with pink belfry in foreground and church of St.
Spyridon below at right with its blue domed bell tower; not the usual view of
these churches (By patano, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=54319454).
9:01 AM – Santorini: Oia – two more white churches
with blue domes (St. Spyridon with blue-domed bell tower and behind it Anasteseos,
with its pink belfry) and three more blue domes in distance, possibly with
Thirasia island across the caldera in distance (vertical).
MT 8:56 AM – Santorini: Oia – two more white churches
with blue domes (St. Spyridon with blue-domed bell tower and behind it Anasteseos,
with its pink belfry) and three more blue domes in distance, possibly with
Thirasia island across the caldera in distance (mild telephoto 67 mm).
MT 8:55 AM – Santorini: Oia – MT and Don; in
background are two more white churches with blue domes (St. Spyridon with
blue-domed bell tower and behind it Anasteseos, with its pink belfry) and three
more blue domes in distance, possibly with Thirasia island across the caldera
in distance (mild telephoto 41 mm).
MT 8:59 AM – Santorini: Oia –Don; in background are
two more white churches with blue domes (St. Spyridon with blue-domed bell tower
and behind it Anasteseos, with its pink belfry) and three more blue domes in
distance, possibly with Thirasia island across the caldera in distance.
9:12 AM – Santorini: Oia – town overlooking sea,
with another blue-domed church at top right.
MT 9:05 AM – Santorini: Oia – MT and Don; in background
is town overlooking sea.
MT 9:05 AM – Santorini: Oia – MT (laughing) and
Don; in background is town overlooking sea.
9:18 AM – Santorini: Oia – view, to south, with
more of town overlooking sea; wide walkway on left.
MT 9:11 AM – Santorini: Oia – view, to south, with
more of town overlooking sea (mild telephoto 34 mm).
9:18 AM – Santorini: Oia – view, to south, with more
of town overlooking sea; more of flower garden in foreground (vertical).
9:24 AM – Santorini: Oia – small church (with small
belfry with single bell and no dome) in foreground; beyond it is a large archway
and a larger church (backlit).
Santorini: Oia – small church
(with small belfry with single bell and no dome) in sunlight (By Norbert Nagel
- Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=38152698).
This is probably the chapel of the Assumption
of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Greek: ΚΟΊΜΗΣΗ ΘΕΟΤΌΚΟΥ, Koímisi Theotókou),
located on the same square at the church of St. George.
We continued to the west toward the Church of St. George.
9:24 AM – Santorini: Oia – view through large
archway of the larger yellow-painted Church of Saint George, with a blue dome
and large tower (no bells visible) on its right, and perhaps another church
(white with 2 bells in belfry) farther to its right (backlit, mild telephoto 63
mm).
9:25 AM – Santorini: Oia – view back to rear (apse)
end of small church (with barrel roof, small belfry with single bell, and no
dome); MT at far end of pavement.
9:26 AM – Santorini: Oia – view through large
archway of a larger yellow-painted church with a blue dome and large tower
(bells now visible in lower part of tower) on its right and perhaps another
church (white with 2 bells in belfry) farther to its right (backlit, telephoto 93
mm).
9:26 AM – Santorini: Oia – view through large
archway of a larger yellow-painted church with a blue dome and large tower
(bells now visible in lower part of tower) on its right and perhaps another
church (white with 2 bells in belfry) farther to its right; partially obscured top
line of sign in Greek on wall under arch reads “ ‘[Peri]fereia Notio’ Aigaiou” [“South’ Aegean”] (backlit, mild telephoto 49 mm).
9:28 AM – Santorini: Oia – yellow-painted church of
St. George (Perivolas), façade with a blue dome and large tower (bells now visible
in lower part of tower) on its right (backlit).
Santorini: Oia – yellow-painted
Church of Saint George (By Norbert Nagel - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=38152703).
The church of Saint George (Agios Georgios)
is one of the two parish churches in Oia (the other being the Panagia Platsani).
It is one of the most famous churches in Oia. The church of Saint George is
also called Perivolas, since it was built in the Perivolas neighborhood at the
beginning of the 19th century. It is also referred to as Apanomeritis, since
Oia was once called Apano Mería. The church holds a holy icon of St. George
that an ancestor of the Nomikos shipping family brought to Oia from
Constantinople. In the earthquake on 1956, the church was almost completely
destroyed (elements of the interior survived), but it was completely restored in
1866-67 by ship owner Loukas Nomikos, a descendant of the family that originally
built the church, whose bust can be seen in the courtyard of the church. The
church stands on a small square overgrown with cypress trees. On the same square,
there is also a small white chapel of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
(Greek: ΚΟΊΜΗΣΗ ΘΕΟΤΌΚΟΥ, Koímisi Theotókou).
9:28 AM – Santorini: Oia – yellow-painted church of
St. George, facade with a blue dome and large tower (bells now visible in lower
part of tower) on its right (not so badly backlit).
9:30 AM – Santorini: Oia – yellow-painted church of
St. George, apse and cupola with blue dome in sunlight and north side in shadow.
MT 9:23 AM – Santorini: Oia – Don by yellow-painted
church of St. George, apse and cupola with blue dome in sunlight.
MT 9:25 AM – Santorini: Oia – MT by yellow-painted
church of St. George, apse and cupola with blue dome in sunlight.
9:34 AM – Santorini: Oia – view back through archway
to rear (apse) end of small church (with barrel roof, small belfry with single
bell, and no dome).
MT 9:29 AM – Santorini: Oia – Don and MT with view
back through archway to rear (apse) end of small church (with barrel roof,
small belfry with single bell, and no dome) (mild telephoto 41 mm).
MT 9:29 AM – Santorini: Oia – Don and MT with view
back through archway to rear (apse) end of small church (with barrel roof,
small belfry with single bell, and no dome) (mild telephoto 41 mm).
9:35 AM – Santorini: Oia – view of rear (apse) end
of small church (with barrel roof, small belfry with single bell, and no dome)
and part of town overlooking the caldera.
MT 9:18 AM – Santorini: Oia – view just to left of
rear (apse) end of small church, of part of town overlooking the caldera.
9:35 AM – Santorini: Oia – view to left of small small church, with
part of town overlooking the caldera.
9:35 AM – Santorini: Oia – view of town back to east,
with wide pedestrian walkway at right.
Then we got back on the bus to head for Megalochori for wine tasting and lunch.
10:13 AM (Cropped) – Santorini: Oia? - view (of a
fortress?) from bus window.
10:21 AM – Santorini: view, from bus window, of flat
land with island in distance.
10:21 AM – Santorini: view of flat land and
beginning of hills from bus window.
10:26 AM – Santorini: view of nearby island (Thirasia)
from bus window.
10:52 AM – Santorini: view of vineyard and white
buildings from bus window.
Then we arrived in Megalochori.
10:58 AM – Santorini: Megalochori - our tour group,
including MT (at left), heading from bus toward church.
Megalochori (Greek: ΜΈΓΑΛΟΧΩΡΙ),
in the center of the island of Santorini 9 km south of Firá, is one of the most
picturesque villages on the island. It lies on a hill facing to the east and has
a labyrinth of steep alleys and narrow cobblestone streets. Its existence is
recorded back to the 17th century. It is home to historical mansions, old
traditional cream and white Cycladic houses, cave houses used for protection
against pirates, and wine cavanas (cellars). There are a few white
churches with bright blue domes. There are tiered bell towers above two arches over
the road as you approach the square. The village has a history of merchants and
wealthy land barons exporting sweet red Vinsanto wine that the island still produces.
Megalochori is the heart of Santorini’s wine industry. The village now has
about 300 permanent residents and three of the largest wineries on the island. Local
residents and businessmen have made a great effort to preserve the characteristics
and beauty of the traditional settlement.
Predominantly vineyard country, the
area of Megalochori covers a large expanse of the southern plains of Santorini,
stretching toward the caldera on the west, with the settlement of Megalochori
built on the banks of a stream to the east.
The two famous churches of
Megalochori are the Panagia Isodion, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and Agios
Nikolaos Marmaritis, a 4th-century Doric temple that was converted into a Christian
church.
Located on the main square, the Panagia
Isodion is the central church of Megalochori, which presents the typical architecture
of the island since it is pure white and crowned by a large blue dome. A few
meters up the same road in the direction of the village of Emporio is the Agia
Anargyri (Saints Anargyri) church, dedicated to the main saint of the village.
The church of the Saints (Agii) Anargyri and the brothers Kosmas and Diamianos
is the second large church in Megalochori, along with the church of the Dormition
of the Virgin Mary (Kimisis tis Theotoku) in the square; as you climb the
cobblestone street to the church, you pass under its impressive bell tower with
six bells on three different levels.
In the village square of
Megalochori, across from the church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary
(Eisodia tis Theotoku), is the church of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary
(Kimisis tis Theotoku). The inscription in the marble above its wooden door says
that the church was renovated in 1872.
The church of the Presentation of
the Virgin Mary (Eisodia tis Theotoku), also known as the Great Virgin Mary
(Panagia I Trani), dominated the center of the village of Megalochori with its sculpted
white bell tower. There has been a church on this site since 1600. The church
was restored and extended in 1931.
10:58 AM – Santorini: Megalochori - our tour group,
including MT (at left), getting closer to that church (with blue dome and
while bell tower); on the hill in the distance is another church (with white
dome and 2 white towers).
10:58 AM (Cropped) – Santorini: Megalochori - getting
closer to that church (with blue dome and while bell tower); on the hill in the
distance is another church (with white dome and 2 white towers).
MT 10:52 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – same blue-domed
church and more of village to right.
MT 10:55 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – bell tower
we thought was attached to the blue-domed church (telephoto 67 mm).
What we had originally thought was the bell tower of the blue-domed church turned out to be above the arch at the entrance to the main square.
11:02 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – bell tower above
arch leading to square with blue-domed church (through the arch, it is clear
that the tower does not go all the way to the ground).
11:03 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – MT near bell
tower above arch leading to square with blue-domed church (through the arch, it
is clear that the tower does not go all the way to the ground).
MT 10:56 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Don pointing
to bell tower above arch leading to square with blue-domed church (through the
arch, it is clear that the tower does not go all the way to the ground).
11:05 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – sign for “Gavalas
Winery”; the street sign below it says “ΟΔΟΣ ΒΑΣ. ΜΑΚΡΗ ΑΡΕΟΠΑΓΙΤΟΥ” (Odós Bas.
Makrí Areopagitou, meaning [Bas.] Makri Areopagitou Street) (telephoto 93 mm).
Gavalas is a small
family-owned winery but still produces wonderful wines from the indigenous varietals
found in Santorini. Up until the 1920s, the family produced wines from grapes
grown in their privately-owned vineyards and vinted in their winery (cavana) in
Megalochori. This production was mainly distributed to customers throughout the
island of Santorini as well as being exported to Alexandria in Egypt. However,
the Vinsanto wine was obtained by churches and monasteries for sacramental use.
In 1973, the Gavalas family established its own wine store in Athens, which
handled exclusively the sales and distribution, throughout Greece, of the min
wines of Santorini: Nyhteri, Brusco, Mezzo, Mandilaria, and Vinsanto. They also
now distribute to the US. However, the Gavalas family produces only 1 barrel
(3,000 bottles of Vinsanto per year.
The vineyards are pruned to look
like bramble bushes that are low to the ground and lack any form of trellis
support. Since the summer winds on Santorini can be very powerful, the vintners
weave the grape vine branches into a nest-like circle, and the grapes mature in
the center of this cylindrical form, which is protected from the wind. During
the summer months, the vines are “watered” at night by the mist rolling in from
the sea, creating a kind of gentle artificial rain. The limited rainfall,
combined with the strong summer winds, results in a low yield of grapes that
provides outstanding quality to the Santorini wines.
11:07 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – front of
booklet for Gavalas Winery, on glass-top table with corks underneath.
Santorini: Megalochori – front cover of booklet for Gavalas Winery; line under
photo: “…..ΤΡΕΙΣ ΑΙΏΕΣ ΠΑΡΆΔΟΗ” (Treis Aióes Parádoi, meaning Three Centuries
of Tradition); below that is “ΟΙΝΟΠΟΙΊΑ ΓΑΒΑΛΑ” (Onopoiía GABALA) and the
English “Gavalas Winery” then “WINES FROM SANTORINI” and “A tradition of three
centuries.”
Santorini: Megalochori – back cover of booklet for Gavalas Winery; with the
printed stain of a wine glass, same as
on front cover.
“With
the legacy and experience for over three centuries, the Gavalas family produces
high quality wines with unique attributes in the international market. Always
with the upmost respect for the characteristics of our indigenous varietals
while applying a combination of both traditional and modern vinifaction techniques.
‘Wine equals life’ Mr. Gavalas says and his actions verify this.
“His
passion for our rare indigenous is even stronger. He always says ‘They are special
and produce unique wines in the world, raising new wine horizons.’
“Our
purpose at Gavalas winery is in pursuing the constant improvement of quality, not
the increase in quantity. Respecting the consumers, we try to provide wines of
value for money.”
MT 11:01 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas
Winery; Don and others seated at table made of a split wine barrel with corks
under the glass table top.
MT 11:04 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas
Winery; end of table made of a split wine barrel with corks under the glass table
top.
11:11 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas Winery,
start of wine tasting (3 or 4 kinds), with booklets on table made of a split
wine barrel with corks under the glass table top.
11:20 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas Winery,
hostesses introducing the next wine and
our guide Alexandra.
MT 11:13 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas
Winery, hostesses introducing the next wine
and our guide Alexandra (mild telephoto 58 mm).
After the wine tasting, Don took photos toward the entrance to the winery.
11:39 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas Winery (wine
cellar? and covered well?).
11:39 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas Winery,
grape vine branches woven into a nest-like circle.
11:40 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas Winery,
another grape vine with branches woven into a nest-like circle.
11:40 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas Winery,
another grape vine with branches woven into a nest-like circle.
11:40 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas Winery,
another grape vine with branches woven into a nest-like circle, next to sign for “GAVALAS
WINERY ΟΙΝΟΠΟΙΕΙΟ ΓΑΒΑΛΑ” (Oinopoieío GAVALA). “WINE TASTING.”
11:40 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – two churches
near winery; these two blue-domed churches are probably the church of the Presentation
of the Virgin Mary (Eisodia tis Theotoku) and the church of the Dormition of
the Virgin Mary (Kimisis tis Theotoku), which are across the square from each
other.
MT 11:39 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – two churches
near winery; these two blue-domed churches are probably the church of the Presentation
of the Virgin Mary (Eisodia tis Theotoku) and the church of the Dormition of
the Virgin Mary (Kimisis tis Theotoku), which are across the square from each
other.
11:41 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas Winery,
small grape press near entrance.
11:41 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Gavalas Winery,
scale for grape baskets.
11:50 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – after Gavalas
Winery, MT on narrow street with bougainvillea and church.
MT 11:50 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – after Gavalas
Winery, narrow, winding street.
Next,
our tour group went to the Marmita Restaurant, on the main square,
for lunch.
11:51 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Marmita Restaurant
entrance, with breakfast menu (in English) on chalk board.
The Marmita Restaurant, on the
cobblestone central square of the village, has been a part of the history of
Megalochori since 2004, with traditional Greek and Mediterranean cuisine.
11:56 AM – Santorini: Megalochori – Marmita Restaurant,
placemat with blue-domed church.
12:01 PM – Santorini: Megalochori – Marmita Restaurant,
our group seater; lady in foreground was of the Korean couple that shared a
table with us.
12:01 PM – Santorini: Megalochori – Marmita Restaurant,
Korean couple that shared a table with us; his name was Suk, and he was a retired
anesthesiologist from Michigan.
12:02 PM – Santorini: Megalochori – Marmita Restaurant,
Don’s lunch plate: moussaka, dip, fava, rolled fig leaf, tomato ball, and bread.
12:02 PM – Santorini: Megalochori – Marmita Restaurant,
Don’s lunch plate (moussaka, dip, fava, rolled fig leaf, tomato ball, and bread)
and wine; Suk's plate of same, across table.
12:27 PM – Santorini: Megalochori – going back out through
same arch with bell tower where we had entered the square, next to church; the
street sign on the rounded wall to right of arch is for “ΠΛΑΤΕΙA” (Plataía, meaning
Square).
Then we took the bus to the archaeological site at Akrotiri.
One of our entrance tickets for the Akrotiri Archaeological Site (“Akrotiri of
Thera”).
12:51 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri - entrance to archaeological
site, with signs on stone wall, in Greek, English, French, and German, for “Akrotiri
Archaeological Site” and in Greek and English, for “Prehistoric Town of Akrotiri”
and exterior of building covering the site.
Akrotiri (Greek: ΑΚΡΩΤΉΡΙ) is a village (pop. 489) located 15 km south of the
capital Firá, built on the slopes of a hill offering staggering views of the caldera
cliffs.
Approximately 2 km southeast of the
village in the Akrotiri Archaeological Site, dating from the Minoan
Bronze Age. This is the most important site of its kind in the Aegean.
The oldest signs of human
settlement are Late Neolithic (4th millennium BC or earlier), when it was a small
fishing and farming village. However, around 2000-1650 BC Akrotiri developed
into one of the Aegean’s major Bronze Age ports. It occupied a strategic position
on the primary sailing route between Cyprus and the Minoan Crete.
The ancient city of Akrotiri was destroyed
in the Minoan eruption sometime in the 16th century BC. The settlement was buried
in volcanic ash, which preserved the remains of fine frescoes and many objects
and artworks.
Map of Akrotiri in the Bronze
Age. About 1600 BC (By Maximilian Dörrbecker - Digitised by myself from two
maps supplied by h-stt and using the information from these web sites:www.therafoundation.org
(1)jfbradu.free.fr (1)www.santorini-culture.gr (1)www.ou.edu (1), (2)appearfr.english-heritage.org.uk
(1)Image renamed from Image:Akrotiri (English Version).png., CC BY-SA 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2673436).
Akrotiri has been suggested as a possible inspiration for Plato’s story of Atlantis. The excavation of Akrotiri in the 1960s provided archaeological evidence leading to speculation that Thera/Santorini was the inspiration for Plato’s Atlantis myth. Reconstructions of the island’s pre-eruption shape and landscape frescos located under the ash both strongly resemble Plato’s description of Atlantis.
The earliest excavations on
Santorini were in 1867, after local people found old artifacts in a quarry.
However, it was extensive modern excavation started in 1967 that revealed the
full value of this site and have made Thera the best known Minoan site outside
of Crete, the homeland of that culture. Only the southern tip of a large town
has been uncovered, yet it revealed complexes of multi-level buildings (some
with 3 stories), advances drainage systems, streets, and squares with remains
of walls standing as high as 8 m, all entombed in the solidified ash of the
famous eruption of Thera. The name of the site in antiquity is unknown; so the excavation
is named for the modern village situated on a hill nearby. An ambitious modern
roof structure, meant to protect the site, collapsed just prior to its completion
in 2005, killing one visitor but causing no damage to the antiquities. As a
result, the site was closed to visitors until 2012.
The Minoan civilization was
a Bronze Age civilization on the island of Crete and other Aegean islands, flourishing
from around 3000 to 1450 BC until a period of decline finally ending around
1100 BC. It represents the first advanced civilization in Europe.
12:50 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri - sign, in Greek and English, for “Prehistoric Town of Akrotiri” (156 mm).
12:51 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri - another sign on
same wall, in Greek, English, French, and German, for “Akrotiri Archaeological
Site” (156 mm).
12:51 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – pumice cliffs
across road from entrance.
12:56 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – exterior of site
with our tour group (MT in foreground).
12:58 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – view to ruins from
walkway right of entrance, under the protective roof.
12:58 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – view to ruins from
walkway right of entrance, under the protective roof.
1:06 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – sign (with text in
Greek only) about restoring artifacts (telephoto 72 mm).
1:07 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – another sign (with
text in Greek only) about storing and restoring artifacts (telephoto 72 mm).
1:07 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – public building (in
background).
MT 1:00 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – closer view of
ruins in foreground, with public building in background.
MT 1:02 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – more of same ruins.
MT 1:02 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – more of same ruins
(mild telephoto 51 mm).
1:07 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – unexcavated part.
1:08 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – same public
building (Xeste 4), with 2-3 floors.
1:09 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – same public building
(Xeste 4), with 2-3 floors.
1:12 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – same public
building (Xeste 4), with 2-3 floors.
“The
building was named conventionally Xeste 4 because of its ashlar (xeste)
masonry. Exceeding 20 meters in length, it is a unique edifice. In its west
wing it was at least three-storeyed, with the paved floor of the third storey still
in situ. Because of the steep southeast gradient of the ground, the east wing
is founded at a much lower level, thus accommodating another one or two
storeys.
“Its
entrance was onto Kouretes Street, where the excavation has barely uncovered
the lintel of the doorway. The walls on either side of the impressive grand
staircase (13), which led f rom a vestibule to the upper storeys, were
decorated with a monumental composition depicting a procession of almost
life-size male figures, ascending the stairs.
“The
size of Xeste 4, quality of construction and commanding appearance, enhanced by
the iconographic programme of the staircase, suggest that this was a public
building. Perhaps it was the seat of the
civic authority responsible for the planning and maintenance of public works,
such as the paved streets and the drainage sewerage network of the city.”
1:12 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – private house.
1:14 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – shaft surrounding a
column supporting the protective roof, shows depth.
1:14 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – showing depth of
site here, near supporting column.
1:15 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – showing depth of site
here, near walkway.
1:15 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – view across that part
of site.
1:16 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – sections of olive
trees (archaeologists poured lime into holes to make these).
1:18 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – view across next
section (House of Ladies?).
1:20 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – what looked like an
oven in wall below.
1:20 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – next house, with
doorway (mild telephoto 44 mm).
1:22 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – long house.
1:22 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – long house (left)
and next section.
1:23 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – façade of long
house (wood beams formed by pouring lime into holes) (mild telephoto 63 mm).
1:24 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – looking back at façade
of long house (wood beams formed by pouring lime into holes) (mild telephoto 56
mm).
1:23 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – next section (with
balcony).
1:24 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – House of Ladies (mild
telephoto 56 mm).
MT 1:16 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – House of Ladies
(mild telephoto 82 mm).
“Due
to the arrangement of destruction debris, the level of the square was raised
and it was formed as a terrace, so as not to obstruct the entrances to the adjacent
buildings. The only building investigated so far is complex Delta, which occupies
a central position on the city and resulted from the gradual addition to each
other of [the] independent building units. The façade of the east unit was
crowned, possibly above the entrance, by double horns (horns of consecration),
carved in whitish tuff stone, after which Double Horns Square was conventionally
named.
“After
the eruption, mud carried by the torrent flowing through this area inundated
the rooms on either side of its bed. Thanks to this mud, the wall-painting with
lilies and swallows, known as the Spring Fresco and exhibited in the National
Archaeological Museum in Athens, was preserved in situ in Room Δ2 (1).
Preserved too were the imprints of wooden vessels and pieces of furniture,
plaster casts of which are displayed in the Museum of Prehistoric Thera in
Phira (2-3).”
Santorini: Akrotiri – Spring Fresco
in National Archaeological Museum in Athens (By Marsyas (2007), CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=472993).
The Spring Fresco is the only Akrotiri fresco to have been found in situ, covering three walls of the same room (Room D2, Building D). It depicts a rocky landscape of the island, before the volcanic eruption: small groups of red lilies dominate the red and gray volcanic formations, while swallows fly over the scene and symbolically announce the annual rebirth of nature.
1:28 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – sign with map of
the site, with color-coded “Time Routes” ranging from 40’ to 90’ (minutes)
[our tour lasted about 60 minutes], all starting from the entrance at bottom
center.
1:29 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – our guide Alexandra
with photos of wall paintings from “House of the Ladies”, both of women.
Santorini: Akrotiri – wall
painting of lady with papyri from “House of the Ladies” (By see above, Public
Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=484927).
1:29 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – next section.
MT 1:25 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – next section
(mild telephoto 54 mm).
1:33 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – next section, with (replica)
jars.
1:33 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – next section, with (replica)
jars (mild telephoto 56 mm).
1:35 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – next section, with small
beds (made by pouring lime into holes, one on right is upside down with legs pointing up) on lower floor.
1:34 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – looking back south over
section with (replica) jars.
MT 1:26 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – looking back
south over section with (replica) jars (mild telephoto 54 mm).
1:37 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – another side of section
with (replica) jars.
1:38 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – some black basalt,
from volcano (mild telephoto 63 mm).
1:40 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – section with
windows.
1:41 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – section with curved
stone wall.
“A
three-storey building named after the wall-painting that decorated the third
storey of room 1. The east wing had been badly eroded over the centuries by the
torrent that flowed through the site prior to the excavation.
“The
entrance to the building was at the southwest corner, where the main staircase
is also situated. The service staircase was at about the centre of the building,
in contact with the south wall of a square light-well (space 9), the only
example of this architectural feature found so far at Akrotiri. The rooms
around the light-well communicated via a narrow corridor. In addition to the
wall-painting of the Ladies, room 1 was adorned with murals representing
clusters of enlarged papyrus flowers. From the abundance and the kinds of finds
it is deduced that most of the rooms of the ground floor and the first storey
were storerooms for foodstuffs and domestic vessels, which suggest that the building
was a house.”
Santorini: Akrotiri – fresco
of papyrus plants from “House of the Ladies” (By see above, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=539869).
1:42 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – House of the Ladies.
1:43 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – place where we went
down steps into house and Triangle Square; our guide Alexandra at top of steps.
1:43 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – our guide Alexandra
on steps where we went down into house and Triangle Square.
1:44 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – looking down into
first and second floor; in left foreground is a toilet (with the holes
reversed).
1:44 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – looking down into
first and second floor; in foreground is a toilet (with the holes reversed).
“A
building comprising a ground floor and two upper storeys at least in its east
wing. The rise in street level at various times, due to arranging destruction
debris, on the one hand necessitating adapting the entrance of the building to
this level, and on the other turned the ground-floor rooms into semi-basement
ones.
“The
spacious room in the middle of the first storey was well illuminated through
the large window overlooking Triangle Square. The discovery of hundreds of loom-weights
attests the practice of weaving there.
“The
west wing of the first storey seems to have housed the formal apartments of the
building, It was divided by thin mud partition walls into three rooms (4, 4A,
5). In the southwest corner was a sanitary installation (4A). This was framed
by room 4, of L-shaped plan, the walls of which were decorated with wall-paintings
of the ‘Ikria’ and which was well lit by two windows, on the west and the south
side. Room 5 had a paved floor and walls with multiple windows, doors and
cupboards. The narrow surfaces above these openings were adorned with the ‘Miniature
Frieze’ wall-painting.
“In
the northwest and southwest corners were the wall-paintings of two young
fishermen, while on the east jamb of the doorway into room 4 was the wall-painting
of the so-called ‘Young Priestess’.”
Santorini: Akrotiri – fresco
of young fisherman, height 1.1 m (By Unknown author - from Le musée absolu,
Phaidon, 10-2012, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=36111522).
1:46 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – lower level of West
House with our Korean friend Suk.
“Almost
all of the house has been excavated. It takes its name from the wall-paintings
of the ladies which were found in Room 1. This house was three-storeyed.”
1:47 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – House of the Ladies
(?).
1:47 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – House of the Ladies
(?) staircase.
1:48 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – Triangle Square with
low door (with red and white striped warning) at far end.
7873
Tuesday, August 6, 2019, 1:48 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – Triangle Square wall
with windows; woman taking photo of sign, as Don was about to do.
“It
is located on the Telichinon Street and is bordered by Complex Δ (south-east),
the West House (north) and another building [House of the Anchor?] (west). The
West House is a [local] wealthy residence. From its entrance, which is in the
north-east corner of the square, the staircase leads to the first and second floors.
The west wing of the first floor constituted the most important [apartment?] of
the building. The wall-paintings of the fishermen, the fleet, and the drowned
men or [S ?] decorated Room 5. In Room 4 were the paintings of the Boxers ([Lavara])
and the ‘antelopes.’ The south-east corner of this storey ([?]) was occupied by
the lavatory with a perfect drainage system.”
Santorini: Akrotiri – frescoes
of boxing children and antelopes (By Ricardo André Frantz (User:Tetraktys) -
taken by Ricardo André Frantz, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2930669).
1:49 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – Triangle Square,
same wall with more windows.
1:49 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – Triangle Square, our
tour group by same wall with more windows.
1:50 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – Triangle Square, MT
and others ready to go through low door.
1:51 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – Triangle Square, two
(or three?) beds (different than before); the (top) one on right is upside down.
“Comprises
a small opening off Telchines Road and is bordered to the South and East by Building
Complex B and on the West by Complex Γ. To the north-west of it is an
unexcavated sector in which one can distinguish the stratiography of the phases
if the eruption. On the north side of the Square is the mill installation Δ15.”
1:51 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – Mill-House Square with
that sign in foreground.
1:52 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – next section, near
exit.
1:53 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – near exit; our
guide Alexandra showing photo of boxers fresco (telephoto 72 mm).
1:54 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – near exit; our
guide Alexandra showing photo of boxers and antelopes frescoes, saying we would
see these in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.
1:54 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – near exit; our
guide Alexandra showing photo of boxers and antelopes frescoes (telephoto 105
mm).
1:55 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – near exit; our
guide Alexandra showing photos of frescoes of two ladies.
2:00 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – near exit; model of
the archaeological site (north side at right).
2:00 PM – Santorini: Akrotiri – near exit; model of
the archaeological site (north side at bottom).
Then the bus took us toward Firá.
2:19 PM – Santorini: view of white buildings along
shoreline, from bus window; towns on cliffs in distance to north could be Firá (center) and Oia (right) .
2:20 PM – Santorini: view to north along shoreline, from bus window; town on cliff in distance could be Firá (mild telephoto 38 mm) .
2:31 PM – Santorini: view of islands in caldera,
from bus window.
2:35 PM – Santorini: Firá – view, from bus window,
of old Cemetery Chapel in Firá; main chapel in Byzantine style, with smaller
white chapel in foreground.
Santorini: Firá – Cemetery
Chapel (By Norbert Nagel - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=22050699).
The Cemetery Chapel, built
in Byzantine style, is the larger of two chapels in a cemetery located near the
northeastern edge of Firá. This main chapel is at the north end of the
cemetery.
Then we arrived in Firá.
Firá (Greek: ΦΗΡΆ)
is the modern capital of Santorini. It derives its name from an alternative
pronunciation of Thíra, the ancient name for the island itself. Firá is a city of
whitewashed houses built on the edge of the 400m (1,312 ft) high caldera on the
western edge of the semicircular island. Access to Firá is mainly by roads on
its eastern side, climbing from its port via the Z-shaped footpath or on donkeys,
or riding the steep cable car from its lower terminal at the port.
The present municipality of Thera
(officially Thirá, pop, 15,500), also called the municipality of Santorini, covers
all settlements on the islands of Santorini and Therasia, as well as the
uninhabited islands of Nea Kameni, Palia Kameni, Aspronisi, and Christiana. It
was formed in 2011 by the merger of the former municipalities of Oia and Thera.
Oia is now called a community (ΚΟΙΝΌΤΗΤΑ, koinótita) within
the municipality of Thera. The municipality of Thira (Thera) is subdivided into
the municipal unit of Oia (which includes Oia, Therasia, and Akrotiri) and the
municipal unit of Thira (which includes Firá and Megalochori).
In Greece, a municipality (Δήμοι,
romanized dimoi) is the lowest level of government. Thirteen administrative
regions form the second-level unit of government. The regions consist of 74
regional units, which are then divided into municipalities. The municipalities
may be subdivided into municipal units, which are further subdivided into
municipal communities and local communities, which are simply called communities
(Κοινότητες, koinótites).
Our guide Alexandra first took us to the main church, the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral.
2:51 PM – Santorini: Firá: our tour group (including
MT) heading toward Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral.
The Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral,
also known as the Cathedral Church of Candlemas of the Lord or Church of Papantis
[Greek for Candlemas], was built in 1827 and rebuilt after the 1956 earthquake.
It is a marvelous blend of two architectural schools. It combines Aegean features
(frescoes painted by local artists and whitewashed walls) with details that
seem kindred to Baroque elements of the Catholic Cathedral of St. John the
Baptist in Oia (rolling arches, the large structure, and the wide white dome).
The Orthodox Cathedral is the largest church in Santorini. Both its exterior and
interior are imposing with elaborate arches, a staggering bell tower, a nice
mosaic on the outside, admirable frescoes, and mosaic flooring. It sits
prominently toward the bottom of the town, offering an impressive view of the
caldera, and can be seen from a great distance and from many parts of Santorini.
Candlemas, also known as
the Feast of the Presentation of Jesus Christ and the Feast of the Purification
of the Blessed Virgin Mary, is a Christian holy day commemorating the
presentation of Jesus in the temple. Candles were traditionally blessed at this
festival, held on February 2.
2:52 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– arches and dome; MT in foreground.
2:52 PM – Santorini: Firá: view, from Orthodox Metropolitan
Cathedral, of cruise ships in Skala Port and islands in caldera.
2:53 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– arches and bell tower.
2:53 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– arches, dome, and base of bell tower.
2:53 PM – Santorini: Firá: view, from Orthodox Metropolitan
Cathedral, of another church (Catholic Cathedral of John the Baptist) in distance.
Santorini: Firá: Catholic Cathedral
of John the Baptist (By Bryan Ledgard - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ledgard/84465511/,
CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=58292124).
The Catholic Cathedral of John
the Baptist (Greek: ΚΑΘΕΔΡΙΚΌΣ ΝΑΌΣ ΤΟΥ ΑΓΊΟΥ ΙΩΆΝΝΗ ΤΟΥ ΒΑΠΤΙΣΤΉ, Kathedrikos naos
toy Agiou Ioanni toy Baptista) is in the Catholic quarter in the center of
Firá. The church was built in 1823 and was completely restored and rebuilt in 1970, after the earthquake of 1956.
The Baroque building combined blue gray and cream. The colors and its size make
it stand out from afar, with its wonderfully ornate clock tower overlooking the
town.
2:57 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– view from rear of nave to iconostasis in apse.
In Eastern Orthodox Christianity,
an iconostasis (plural: iconostases) is a wall of icons and religious
paintings, separating the nave from the sanctuary in a church. In the Eastern
Orthodox tradition, only men can enter the altar portion behind the iconostasis.
The word comes from the Greek ΕἰΚΟΝΟΣΤΆΣΙ(-ΟΝ)
(eikonostási(-on), which means “icon stand.”
2:58 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– closer view of apse with iconostasis.
Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan
Cathedral – closer view of apse above iconostasis (By Zitumassin - Own work,
Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8528277).
2:58 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– right side of nave.
2:58 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– left side of nave, with wooden pulpit.
Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan
Cathedral – left side of nave, above door by wooden pulpit. (By Zitumassin -
Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8526678).
MT 2:52 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan
Cathedral – inside of dome, with Christ Pantocrator.
Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan
Cathedral – inside of dome, with Christ Pantocrator (Christ in His Majesty) (By Zitumassin - Own work,
Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8526290).
2:59 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– icon of saint (missing painting) on right side of nave.
2:59 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– chapel off right side of nave.
3:00 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– painting of saint on left side of nave, near pulpit.
3:00 PM – Santorini: Firá: Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
– wooden pulpit on left side of nave.
3:04 PM – Santorini: Firá: view, from Restaurant
Bar Classico near Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, of cruise ships in Skala
Port and islands in caldera.
Now it was time head back to the Viking Star. Although Viking had issued us tickets to take the cable car back down to the Skala Port, we had the option of taking the “donkey trail.” Although the ship’s Shore Excursion Manager had told us in his Port Talk that this was very strenuous, a lady also walking the trail told us that her local guide took these steps every day to go to work. The main dangers we encountered were deposits left by the “donkeys” with which we shared the trail and the fact that the downward-angled stone steps were worn smooth and slippery.
One of our tickets for the cable car (which we did not use).
3:06 PM – Santorini: Firá: blue sign, in Greek and
English, pointing to “Old Port” (Skala Port) and sign to its left pointing to “Donkey
Station” (English only); both signs point down.
Our guide Alexandra said to take this way for the donkey trail, and we elected to go that way.
3:06 PM (Cropped) – Santorini: Firá: blue sign, in
Greek and English, pointing to “Old Port” (Skala Port) and sign to its left pointing
to “Donkey Station” (English only); both signs point down.
The Karavolades Stairs and
commonly called the “Donkey Trail.” However, the animals taking people
up and down this trail are mules, not donkeys. The difference is important because
mules are much larger and stronger than donkeys. The zigzagging trail, also
called the Santorini Port Walk, is 1.2 mi long and consists of about 580 wide
steps on the face of the 800-ft cliff. It can accommodate donkeys and mules but
is also used for hiking or walking.
Viking map of Thíra (Firá) cropped
to show Karavolades Stairs with Old Port
(16) at bottom and Agios Mena church (13) just to right of top of the
zigzagging trail; 9 = Shopping area near Donkey Station at top.
3:07 PM – Santorini: Firá: view, from near Donkey Station, of cruise ships in
Skala Port and islands in caldera.
3:07 PM – Santorini: Firá: another view of cruise
ships in Skala Port and islands in caldera.
3:09 PM – Santorini: Firá: another view of cruise
ships in Skala Port and islands in caldera.
3:11 PM – Santorini: Firá: donkey station at top of
trail [however, the “donkeys” looked more like mules].
3:11 PM – Santorini: Firá: donkey station at top of
trail; those electing to walk down the same trail had to pass on the left; MT in
left foreground.
3:24 PM – Santorini: Firá: view down the upper part
of the donkey trail toward the shore of Skala Port; you can see people on the
wide steps in the foreground and others on “donkeys” farther below.
3:24 PM – Santorini: Firá: view down the upper part
of the donkey trail toward the shore of Skala Port; you can see people on the
wide steps in the foreground and others on “donkeys” farther below; this view
also shows cruise ships in port and islands in the caldera.
MT 3:15 PM – Santorini: Firá: view from farther down
the donkey trail toward the shore of Skala Port; people on “donkeys” on next
lower part of zigzag trail (mild telephoto 61 mm).
3:28 PM – Santorini: Firá: view from farther down
the trail toward the shore of Skala Port; here you can see one of the tender
boats leaving the port to transfer passengers to a cruise ship.
3:28 PM – Santorini: Firá: view from farther down
the trail toward the shore of Skala Port; here you can see one of the tender
boats leaving the port to transfer passengers to a cruise ship (vertical photo).
MT 3:22 PM – Santorini: Firá: view of cruise ship in
Skala Port and islands in caldera (mild telephoto 37 mm).
3:29 PM – Santorini: Firá: view back up the steps.
MT 3:22 PM – Santorini: Firá: Don and view back up
the steps.
MT 3:22 PM – Santorini: Firá: MT or railing of steps
with cruise ship and islands in background.
3:34 PM – Santorini: Firá: continuing down the steps,
with cable car crossing nearby.
3:39 PM – Santorini: Firá: MT coming down the steps,
shortly after she had slipped and fallen on a step like the one she is standing
on.
MT 3:34 PM – Santorini: Firá: MT on the steps, with
view down to next switchback.
3:40 PM – Santorini: Firá: view down to Skala Port,
with cruise ship and island in caldera; pink building near bottom of cliff in distance.
3:40 PM – Santorini: Firá: view down to Skala Port,
with interesting castle-like pink building near bottom of cliff (telephoto 105
mm).
3:40 PM – Santorini: Firá: view down to Skala Port,
with sailing ship and small boats (mild telephoto 30 mm).
The Skala Port, also known
as Old Port or Gialós, was created by the volcanic eruption in 1650 BC. It is Santorini
Cruise Port of call, located at the bottom of the Caldera Cliffs in Thíra (Firá),
the capital of Santorini. It doesn’t have a cruise terminal, and visitors are tendered
ashore by small boats. During high season, the island hosts about 80,000
visitors per day. There can be as many as 5 cruise chips arriving in the same
day [in our case, there were 6]. The Skala Port accommodated cruise ship tender
boats and some small private tour boats.
From Skala, there are 3 ways to reach
the top of the cliff, which is 260 m above sea level, or return: cable car (every
20 minutes, €6), mule ride (€8), or a tough hike of 580 steps (following the
same path as the mules).
Skala (Greek: ΣΚΑΛΑ)
means staircase. Gialós (Greek: ΓΙΑΛΌΣ) means seashore, coast, or
beach (the edge of land meeting ocean, sea, gulf, or bay).
3:52 PM – Santorini: Firá: Skala Port - MT (at
left) and others waiting in long line to board tender boat for Viking Star;
Viking reps were at red awning.
3:52 PM – Santorini: Firá: Skala Port – view, from our
waiting line, of cable car up the cliff, and other people in line for it.
3:54 PM – Santorini: Firá: Skala Port – view, from our
waiting line, of cable car and town at top of the cliff, with part of donkey
trail at top right.
3:54 PM – Santorini: Firá: Skala Port – view, from our
waiting line, of town at top of the cliff, with Agios Mina church (telephoto 119
mm).
Santorini: Firá: Agios Mina
church (By Klearchos Kapoutsis from Santorini, Greece - Agios Minas, CC BY 2.0,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=25306458).
The Ekklisia Agios Minas (Church of Saint Mina) is perched along the caldera escarpment. The whitewashed church has a white dome and a 3-bell tower. The name comes from St. Mina (also Minas, Menas, Mena, or Mennas) (285-c. 309). The martyr and wonder-worker is one of the most well-known Egyptian saints. He was an Egyptian soldier in the Roman army martyred because he refused to recant his Christian faith.
3:57 PM – Santorini: Firá: Skala Port – view, from our
tender boat, of cliff with pink, castle-like building.
4:01 PM – Santorini: Firá: Skala Port – view, from our
tender boat, of port, cliff with cable car end zigzagging donkey trail, and
town of Firá at top.
4:01 PM – Santorini: Firá: Skala Port – view, from our
tender boat, of port, cliff with cable car and zigzagging donkey trail, and
town of Firá at top.
MT 3:54 PM – Santorini: Firá: Skala Port – view, from
our tender boat, of port, cliff with cable car end zigzagging donkey trail, and
town of Firá at top (mild telephoto 36 mm).
4:01 PM – Santorini: Firá: Skala Port – view, from our
tender boat, of port, cliff with zigzagging donkey trail, and town of Firá at
top (mild telephoto 63 mm).
4:02 PM – Santorini: Firá: Skala Port – view, from our
tender boat, of port, cliff with cable car and zigzagging donkey trail, and town
of Firá at top (mild telephoto 63 mm).
The
Viking Star then sailed past Oia on our way out of Santorini.
4:11 PM – Santorini: Oia: view, from Viking Star,
of cliff with town of Oia at top.
Like Firá, Oia has a zigzag “donkey
trail” (of 214 steps) leading from the harbor village of Ormos Ammoudi to
the town of Oia at the top of the cliff. Alternatively, there is a road to the
top.
4:11 PM – Santorini: Oia: view, from Viking Star,
of cliff with zigzagging “donkey trail” (at right) or a more gently sloping road (to left) leading
from Ormos Ammoudi up to the town of Oia at the top (telephoto 93 mm).
Back
onboard the Viking Star, we went to the Explorer’s Desk to get a map for Athens and a shuttle bus
schedule. Victor helped us get change for tipping guides, and we asked about
anniversary celebrations.
Then MT decided to do a load of laundry (after her fall on the donkey trail, with dung).
Around 6:30, we went to dinner in the Restaurant.
At sunset, from our balcony on the starboard (right) side of the ship, MT noticed a large island (which may have been Crete).
8:56 PM – Viking Star: view of island in sunset.
8:56 PM – Viking Star: view of island in sunset (telephoto
156 mm).
MT 8:42 PM – Viking Star: view of island in sunset
(telephoto 96 mm).
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