4 August 2019 Corfu

This post is based primarily on Don's notes, occasionally supplemented with MT's notes from our cruise in 2019. When information from other sources is added—for further explanation to readers or to satisfy our own curiosity—that is set off in a text box (as this one).

Most of the photos that accompany this post are from Don’s camera (with a caption indicating the time it was taken); those from MT’s iPhone are indicated by “MT” placed at the beginning of the photo caption. Photos from any other source (such as the public domain Wikimedia Commons), occasionally used for clarification, indicate that source in the caption.

The weather forecast in the Viking Daily newsletter was “Sunny, 90°F / 32°C.”

We woke at 6 am, and room service breakfast was delivered at 6:15.

The Viking Star was scheduled to arrive at the North West Pier in Corfu, our first stop in Greece, at 8 am, but we got there quite a bit earlier.

Sunday, ‎August ‎4, ‎2019, 6:16 AM – Corfu: view of city as we were coming into the port.

The Viking Daily and the Viking Cruise Documents described “Corfu (Kérkyra), Greece” as follows:

“The island of Corfu off the northwestern tip of Greece has a rich history shaped by conquerors and by royalty seeking tranquility. Corfu’s Old Town and Fortress—fashioned by the once powerful Venetian Republic—comprise a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its narrow warrens lead to one of Europe’s largest public squares and a lovely promenade once exclusively reserved for the local aristocracy. Everywhere, magnificent coastal views unfold and scenic byways lead to history-rich enclaves, from the archaeological site of Paleopolis and the stunning Vlacherna Monastery to a former Greek royal villa. With its legendary beauty, Corfu has also served as a stunning backdrop for fable and myth; Odysseus is said to have stepped ashore here during his epic voyage.”

Corfu or Kérkyra (Greek Κέρκυρα, romanized: Kérkyra, pronounced ['cercira]; ncient Greek: Κόρκυρα, romanized: Kórkyra, pronounced [kókyra]; Medieval Greek: Κορυφώ, romanized: Koryfó;  Latin: Corcyra) is a Greek island (pop. 102,071) in the Ionian Sea. Including its small satellite islands, it forms the margin of the northwestern frontier of Greece. The principal city on the island and its capital is also named Corfu.

Map of Corfu and its satellite islands (By Eric Gaba (Sting - fr:Sting) - Own work ;Data sources:Topography: NASA Shuttle Radar Topography Mission (SRTM3 v.2) (public domain) edited with 3DEM from Visualization Software LLC and vectorized with Inkscape ;Bathymetry: NGDC ETOPO1 ;Locator map: Image:Europe_countries.svg (modified) created by Júlio Reis under CC-BY-SA ;Other references used for additional data:NASA World Wind ;Maps available on Corfougrece.free.fr ;Map available on Corfu-hotels.us ;Maps of Greece and Albania from the site of the University of Texas ;ViaMichelin., CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1862405).

The island is bound up with the history of Greece from the beginnings of Greek mythology. Its actual history is full of battles and conquests. Ancient Kórkyra took part in the Battle of Sybota (433 BC), which was the catalyst for the Peloponnesian War and, according to Thucydides (Greek historian, c. 460-400 BC), the largest naval battle between Greek city states until that time. Thucydides also reports that Kórkyra was one of the three great naval powers of 5th-century BC Greece, along with Athens and Corinth. In the Middle Ages and under Venetian rule, the fortifications on Corfu served as a deterrent to Ottoman expansion into the Adriatic. From 1386 to 1797, it was ruled by the Republic of Venice. Under Venice, it was the only part of Greece never conquered by the Ottomans. Corfu eventually fell under British rule following the Napoleonic Wars, but was ceded to Greece by the British in 1864. 

The city of Corfu (pop. 32,095) is the capital of the island and is part of the municipality of Corfu island. It also serves as the capital for the Corfu regional unit and of the region of the Ionian Islands. In 2007, the city’s Old Town was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The architecture in the Old Town of Corfu clearly shows Venetian influence. In several parts of the Old Town, there are palaces and houses of the Venetian nobility, with traces of past splendor.

Viking map of city of Corfu: Key to red callouts: 1 = Port (Corfu Cruise Terminal), 2 = New Fortress, 3 = Lofos Avrami, 4 = Palace of St. Michael and St. George, 5 = Liston Promenade, 6 = Statue of Count Schulenburg, 7 = Spianada Square, 8 = Old Fortress, 9 = St. Spyridon Church, 10 = Esplanade, 11 = Hospital (off left side of map), 12 = Kanoni (only on Overview map), 13 = Vlacherna Monastery (only on Overview map), 14 = Paleopolis (only on Overview map), 15 = Achilleon Palace (off bottom of Overview map), 16 = Durrell Gardens, 17 = Monastery of the Virgin Mary (off left side of map), 18 = Kolovri Rock (off left side of map). [Due to our optional shore excursion, we would actually see only 2, 8, and 9.]

Viking “Overview” map of area immediately around city of Corfu, with city at top right.

6:16 AM – Corfu: small ship and boats in port, with town in background (telephoto 156 mm).

It turned out that this would be our only opportunity to see the Old Town and its fortifications.

MT 7:15 AM – Corfu: New Fortress (mild telephoto 44 mm).

6:27 AM – Corfu: New Fortress (telephoto 119 mm).

Medieval castles punctuating strategic locations across the island of Corfu are a legacy of struggles in the Middle Ages against invasions by pirates and the Ottomans. Two of these castles enclose the capital, which is the only city in Greece surrounded in such a way. Since the Middle Ages, the city has become known as Kastropolis (Castle City). The fortifications on the island were used by the Venetians (ruled Corfu 1386-1797) to defend against Ottoman intrusion into the Adriatic. The old fortifications, formerly so extensive as to require a force of from 10,000 to 20,000 troops to man them, were largely dismantled by the British in the 19th century.

The New Fortress (Greek: Νέο Φρούριο [Neo Frourio]; Venetian: Fortaleza Nuova) was a Venetian fortress built not far from the old harbor, on the hill of St. Mark in Corfu; hence it can also be called the Fortress of St. Mark. It was built in stages, from 1572 to post 1728. In the aftermath of the first great Ottoman siege of Corfu in 1537, the Venetians developed plans to expand the fortifications of the city outside of the walls of the medieval citadel. The original architect was the Venetian military engineer Ferrante Vitelli. The exact dating of the new Venetian fortress is uncertain, with accounts varying between 1576 or 1577-1588 and 1572-1645. The Venetian fortifications were later expanded by the British and French to help defend against a possible Turkish attack. The current buildings that exist within the fortress were built by the British during their rule of the island (1815-63). The fortress compound is divided into two levels, the lower to protect the harbor and the higher one to protect the city. In the lower level, there is a 3-story building called “Punta Perpetua” and a bastion of pentagonal shape. The bastion is at a height of 55 m above sea level. At the top of the fortress, there are a stone building that was used for defense and a brick building that in modern times serves as the headquarters of the Naval Station of Corfu.

Dutch map, from 1688, of “De Stad en Kasteel van Korfu” (The City and Castle[s] of Corfu), from 1573, shows the “Forttezza Vecchia” (Old Fortress), then on a separated small island at left, with its [unlabeled, but directly under that label for the fortress] Castel a Terra (Castle Near the Land) and its “Castel da Mare” (Castle by the Sea) at far left, and the “Forttezza Nuova” (New Fortress) at the lower right (By Olfert Dapper - http://eng.travelogues.gr/collection.php?view=55, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=47871152).

Later we got a brief view of the St. Spyridon Church in the Old Town.

6:57 AM – Corfu: bell tower of St. Spyridon Church (telephoto 218 mm).

Corfu: bell tower of St. Spyridon Church (By Jean-Luc 2005 - Own workOriginal text: selbst fotografiert, Copyrighted free use, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=64277686).

St. Spyridon Church (Greek: Ιερός Ναός Αγίου Σπυρίδωνος [Holy Temple of St. Spyridon]) is a Greek Orthodox church built in the 1580s in the Old Town. It is a single-nave basilica, and its bell tower is the highest in the Ionian Islands. It is the most famous church in Corfu.

Then we caught sight of the Old Fortress.

6:27 AM – Corfu: part of Old Fortress, with tower of St. Spyridon Church (telephoto 156 mm).

6:27 AM – Corfu: both parts of Old Fortress, with towers of St. Spyridon Church and another smaller church at right (telephoto 81 mm).

Corfu: the Old Town and Old Fortress (Castel a Mare at left, Castel a Terra at right), as seen from the New Fortress (By Martin Falbisoner - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=62851708).

The Old Fortress (Greek: Παλαιό Φρούριο, Palaio Frourio; Venetian: Fortezza Vecchia), on the east side of the town, is a Venetian fortress that covers the rocky promontory that initially contained the Old Town of Corfu that had emerged during Byzantine times (the Byzantine Empire existed 395-1453). The earliest indication of fortifications on the site presently occupied by the Old Fortress date from around the 6th century AD, after the destruction of the ancient city of Corcyra by the Goths in 551. Between the 7th and 10th centuries, there were no further developments in the citadel. The first report of renewed fortifications was in the early 11th century. The citadel features two peaks that were fortified by strong towers for centuries. The name of Corfu came from the twin peaks of the fortress (Coryphe or Koryfo in Greek, meaning “peaks”). The western and higher peak, which is closer to the town, was fortified by the Byzantines around the 12th century. The Venetians called this “Castel a Terra” (Castle Near the Land) or “Castel Nuovo” (New Castle). The eastern peak, they called “Castel a Mare” (Castle by the Sea) or “Castel Vecchio” (Old Castle). In the early 15th century, the Venetians largely replaced the Byzantine structures with fortifications of their own design. Following the first siege of Corfu by the Ottomans in 1537, the Venetian governor ordered the construction of new bastions and towers that exist today. In 1718, lightning struck the powder magazine at Castel a Mare, causing a chain reaction of explosions that destroyed most of the buildings inside the castle and many city buildings. The Old Fortress was rebuilt in 1721.

Map of “La Gra[nd] Forteza de Corfu” (The Grand Fortress of Corfu), from 1573, shows (clearly exaggerated) the “Castel Vechio” (Old Fortress) and “Castel Novo” (New Fortress) (By Simon Pinargenti - Isole che son da Venetia, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=9702345); the wikimedia.commons summary gives the Description “Ελληνικά: Παλιό Φρούριο Κέρκυρας; Español: Fortaleza antigua de Corfú” (Greek and Spanish for Old Fortress of Corfu),  the Date “1573”, and the Source “Isole che son ca Venetia” (Islands That Are of Venice).

At 8:15, we went to the Theater meeting place for the optional shore excursion “Mt. Pantokrator Hike & Old Peritheia.” We picked this one because it was rated “demanding” (versus “easy” or “moderate”) and we wanted the exercise. Because this would last 5.5 hours, it meant we would miss any chance to do the included excursion “Panoramic Corfu & Old Town Walking Tour” or any of the other options that would have included the Old Town.

The Viking Cruise Documents described the 5.5-hr “Mt. Pantokrator Hike & Old Peritheia” shore excursion as follows:

“Scenic Mountain Trek and Traditional Settlement Visit

“Journey into the wilds of Corfu and discover the old village of Peritheia during a hike down Mt. Pantokrator. A scenic drive by motor coach will take you to the spot where you will begin your hike on the slopes of the mountain. Take a winding path up the slopes, passing through a traditional village along the way. After time to enjoy the sweeping views of the island and the straits between Greece and Albania, start your easy descent down the mountain to the historic village of Old Peritheia. Dating back to ancient times, it was once one of the wealthiest villages on the island, but was abandoned over the past century. Today, it is in the midst of a revival, and many of its homes are under reconstruction. Walk along its cobblestone streets, then enjoy drinks and snacks at one of the traditional settlements before returning to your ship.”

Map of Corfu and its satellite islands (By Eric Gaba (Sting - fr:Sting) - Own work ;Data sources:Topography: NASA Shuttle Radar Topography Mission (SRTM3 v.2) (public domain) edited with 3DEM from Visualization Software LLC and vectorized with Inkscape ;Bathymetry: NGDC ETOPO1 ;Locator map: Image:Europe_countries.svg (modified) created by Júlio Reis under CC-BY-SA ;Other references used for additional data:NASA World Wind ;Maps available on Corfougrece.free.fr ;Map available on Corfu-hotels.us ;Maps of Greece and Albania from the site of the University of Texas ;ViaMichelin., CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1862405); added red circle for city of Corfu and blue circle for Mt. Pantokrator.

Mount Pantokrator (Παντοκράτωρ in Greek) is located in the far northeastern part of the island of Corfu, about 15 km (9 mi) from the city of Corfu. At a height of 906 m (2,972 ft), it is the highest mountain on the island. At the summit, one can see the whole of Corfu, as well as the coast of Albania, which lies a short distance from the island. On particularly clear days, it is also possible to see Italy despite it being around 130 km (81 mi) away. At the top, there is a café for tourists, a telecommunications station, whose largest tower stands directly over a well, and a monastery. (The first monastery was built in 1347 but was destroyed around 1537; the current church is from around 1689,  with a façade from the 19th century.) From this peak, the village of Old Peritheia (and now the abandoned village of Sinies) can be seen.

Mount Pantokrator with communications tower at top, viewed from the sea (By Floribal fr, Own Work at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Corfu-Mount_Pantokrator.jpg).

Mount Pantokrator summit with communications tower at top (By Benjamin Janecke (Rectifier99) - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=12365360). 

Christ Pantocrator (Greek : Χριστὸς Παντοκράτωρ, Christos Pantokrator) is a title of Christ represented as the ruler of the universe in Christian iconography, especially in Byzantine church decoration. The word pantokrator, usually translated as “Almighty” or “All-Powerful,” is derived from one of the names of God in Judaism. The figure of Christ Pantocrator is known in the West as “Christ in Majesty.”

The Viking description of this excursion was somewhat misleading. A van (apparently our group was too small for a “motor coach” [bus]) did take us to the point where we would begin the hike, and there were some “views of the island and straits” from that point. However, there was no “Take a winding path up the slopes, passing through a traditional village along the way” before we started our descent (the lower part of which was far from “easy”) down to Peritheia.

Corfu: flier for our excursion showing “Almighty (Παντοκράτωραç) (906m – 2972ft ),” “Footpath – Canyon (660m – 2165ft),” and “Old Peritheia (‘Παλαιά Περίθεια’) (437m – 1433ft).”

Corfu: other side of flier for our excursion, from “Corfu Sea Land Activities” tour company, for “Old Peritheia (Παλαιά Περίθεια) Hiking” with the following description: 

“Mount ‘Pantokratoras’ (Almighty) is located on the north eastern part of Corfu island and has a maximum altitude of 920m (3018ft). Up there we will enjoy the spectacular view if the whole island of Corfu and the sea straits between Albania and Greece. 

“The historic ‘Heritage Protected’ village of ‘Old Peritheia’, in ‘A Designated Area of Natural Beauty’ that was a winner of ‘TripAdvisor’s Certificate of Excellence’ in 2016-2018. 

“The village of Old Peritheia is the oldest example of the original mountain villages of Corfu. Records date back to the mid-14th century, although it is considered to have been inhabited many centuries before. 

“Encircled by eight churches & nestling beneath the island’s highest mountains, Old Peritheia is set amidst beautiful countryside with views to the sea.” 

This page lists “Duration: 2.5-3 Hours” and “Distance: 9.5Km” for the hiking tour.

9:05 AM – Corfu: our tour group, Viking Star Group 3, with MT in left foreground, by the van, near a refreshment stand (café?).

9:06 AM – Mt. Pantokrator – our group walking from van, we thought toward what we thought was a monastery at the top (only communications towers) but actually toward the walking path leading down; our guide Alexander in orange shirt.

9:15 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: roadside shrine to man killed in accident, with view down toward sea. 

9:17 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: view down toward sea with first sight of Peritheia (mountains in distance probably in Albania). 

MT 9:11 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: view down toward Peritheia and the sea beyond (vertical, mild telephoto 39 mm). 

9:18 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: first sight of Peritheia in distance (telephoto 156 mm). 

9:37 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: we were still close to the summit with communications towers. 

9:40 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: another view down toward sea. 

9:40 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: view down toward sea, with islands (telephoto 156 mm). 

9:40 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: we were further around the summit, still on a gravel road, with lesser road leading toward summit. 

9:41 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: we were further around the summit, still on a gravel road, with lesser road leading toward summit.

9:49 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: road ahead toward Peritheia—we thought this was the way we would take. 

MT 9:45 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: yellow flower by road. 

At this point, we stopped at a shelter, and a man came with a 45-wheel-drive vehicle, bringing us walking poles and bottled water. 

MT 9:45 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: MT and Don by side of road. 

MT 9:45 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: Don, guide Alexander (orange shirt), and others of our group at roadside shelter; the yellow sign says: “Κυνηγετικος Συλλογος Κερκυρας – Παραρτημα Βορειου Κερκυρας” (Kynigetikos Syllogos Kerkyras – Parartima Boreioy Kerkyras, Hunting Association of Corfu - Northern Branch Annex). 

MT9:45 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: Don and others of our group at shelter. 

9:51 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: MT and a man from our group getting their walking poles from the 4-wheel-drive vehicle (note the small yellow arrow at the left pointing down, off the road). 

9:55 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: our group starting down the rocky path off the road, with our guide Alexander in the lead. 

MT 10:03 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: Don on the rocky path off the road, followed by Alexander’s helper. 

MT 10:06 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: our guide Alexander pausing on path to tell us something. 

10:18 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: view of steep incline to valley (ravine?) just to the right of our rocky path.

10:20 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: view of steep incline to valley (ravine?) just to the right of our rocky path, with Peritheia down below. 

MT 10:19 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: MT and Don on path with Peritheia down below. 

10:25 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: couple of our group and view of Peritheia down below.

10:28 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: part of our group and view of Peritheia down below. 

10:38 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: part of our group continuing on winding path toward Peritheia down below.

MT 10:23 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: Alexander, three of our group, and Don on path with Peritheia down below, with thistles in foreground. 

MT 10:28 AM – Mt. Pantokrator: approaching Old Peritheia (mild telephoto 58 mm). 

We finally arrived in Old Peritheia.

Old Peritheia (Greek: Παλαιά Περίθεια, Palea Peritheia, sometimes spelled Perithia), built at an altitude of 410 m (1,345 ft), is Corfu’s oldest village. According to local history, a settlement existed here in 740 BC, and it was ruined several times until it was re-established in the 14th century, during Byzantine times. The “Perithians” helped build the original monastery on Mt. Pantokrator in 1347. Around 130 stone houses were built, entirely by hand, many of which have now fallen into ruin but are now under restoration since the owners of the B&B (an Anglo-Dutch couple, Mark and Saskia Hendriksen) began bringing the village back to life in 2010. In the central square of the village, there are now five taverns at work.

The ancient, historic “Heritage Protected” village remains the best example of a mountain village and life before tourism. It was once inhabited by about 1200 people and was one of the wealthiest on the island, encircled by eight churches and surrounded by vineyards, olive trees, and thousands of sheep that roamed across the mountainside. Most of the houses and public buildings were built in the Venetian style. Nestled beneath the island’s highest mountains and with views to the sea, the village was once a hideaway from pirate attacks, when the people from the coast would come here for protection. Another issue that made people move to the mountainside were the diseases caused by mosquitos on the coast. To avoid such dangers, many islanders headed for the hills, where they used the plentiful local stone to build agricultural villages at a safe distance from the turbulent shores below—the only surviving example is Old Peritheia. When the threat of piracy eased in the 19th century, some inhabitants started to gradually move to the coast again. Finally, as tourism began to get a foothold on the island in the 1950s and 60s and the village population migrated to the new-found wealth and jobs in tourism in the coastal areas. Just a few elderly people eventually stayed back to take care of the livestock and some houses. There is now a “new” Peritheia located on the main coastal road.

10:46 AM – Peritheia: steps to stone archway (probably of the Church of St Nikolaos of Petra).

10:46 AM – Peritheia: abandoned house. 

10:46 AM – Peritheia: path ahead. 

10:48 AM – Peritheia: large house; our guide said it was abandoned, but it had clothes hanging on a line. 

10:48 AM – Peritheia: large house; our guide said it was abandoned, but it had clothes hanging on a line.

10:51 AM – Peritheia: another church (probably the Church of Zoodochos Pigi).

10:56 AM – Peritheia: bell tower of St. Spyridon Church and another church in background we would see later (behind trees). 

Then we came to a square with several taverns. 

11:03 AM – Peritheia: menu for Taverna “The Old Perithia” Alkinoos” (before we knew not to enter there). 

11:03 AM – Peritheia: another sign for Taverna-Cafe “The Old Perithia” Alkinoos” (before we knew not to enter there) with text in Greek and English, saying “We renovated our grandfather’s ginger ale lab at the tavern’s ground floor and we offer fresh and home made ginger beer” with handwritten “SERVED HERE” and “HOME MADE GINGER BEER SERVED HERE.” 

The “drinks and snacks” listed for our excursion would be at Taverna Foros on the same square. 

11:03 AM – Peritheia: sign for “Taverna Foros Thomas” Alkinos” (with printed menus in Greek and English) and blackboard menu for “Thomas Siriotis ‘Foros’ Taverna Home Made Sw[eets].” 

11:03 AM – Peritheia: MT and others of our tour group entering Taverna Foros. 

Peritheia: business card for "Tavern - Grill Room Foros," hand-drawn and signed “TS” (for Thomas Siriotis). 

Peritheia: back side of business card for “Taverna – Grill Room ‘Foros’.” 

11:07 AM – Peritheia: sign in indoor dining area for “ΟΒΕΛΙΣΤΗΡΙΟ ‘ο ΦΟΡΟΣ’ θΩΜΑΣ ΣΥΡΙΩΤΗΣ” (Obelistrio ‘o Foros’ Thomas Syriotes [Obelisk ‘Foros’ – Thomas Syriotes] (telephoto 119 mm). 

11:14 AM – Peritheia: Taverna Foros – first two parts of our “snack”; MT’s hand at right.

11:20 AM – Peritheia: Taverna Foros – our group at the table (with sign above door in background). 

MT 11:14 AM – Peritheia: Taverna Foros – our group at the table (better view of MT). 

11:52 AM – Peritheia: our group leaving Taverna Foros. 

11:08 AM – Peritheia: view from Taverna Foros (see arrow sign pointing this way) to “Taverna Capricorn ‘ΑΙΓΌΚΕΡΩΣ’ [Greek for Capricorn],” across street. 

11:52 AM – Peritheia: view into dining area of Taverna Capricorn, with menus on wall at far end. 

11:53 AM – Peritheia: our group following our guide Alexander toward the van. 

11:58 AM – Peritheia: “ΩΓΝΙΖΤΡΑ” (Ognistra Taverna), with menus out front. 

11:58 AM – Peritheia: “ΩΓΝΙΖΤΡΑ” (Ognistra Taverna), with menus out front. 

11:58 AM – Peritheia: sign in English and Greek for “Welcome to One of Corfu’s Oldest Villages” and “Old Peritheia, a Heritage Protected Site” with map of Old Peritheia below. 

11:58 AM (Cropped) – Peritheia: sign with map of Old Peritheia; key at top right for red callouts in Greek and English; English part reads as follows: 1 = The holy church of St Athanasios, 2 = The holy church of Theotokos - The Virgin Mary, 3 = The holy church of St Iakovos the Persian, 4 = The holy church of St Paraskevi, 5 = The holy church of St Panteleimon, 6 = The holy church of St Spyridon, 7 = The holy church of Zoodochos Pigi, 8 = The holy church of St Nikolaos of Petra. [Coming down from Mt. Pantokrator, we had entered the village around number 8, and after eating we departed from around number 3.]7530a MT Sunday, ‎August ‎4, ‎2019, 11:58 AM – Peritheia: top part of sign in English and Greek for “Welcome to One of Corfu’s Oldest Villages” and “Old Peritheia, a Heritage Protected Site.” 

11:59 AM – Peritheia: sign about sights in the village; the English reads as follows: 

“CHURCHES: St Athanasios, St Mary the Virgin, St Iakovos the Persian, St Paraskevi, St Panteleimon, St Spyridon, Zoodochos Pigi, St Nikolaos of Petra 

“THINGS TO SEE: Walking Tour of the Old Village, Path to Krinias & the Old Spring, Skordilis Arch, Skordilis Mansion (The Old School), Village Square & Sun Dial, Views of the Village along Upper Path 

“ LOCAL PRODUCTS: Honey 

“PLACES TO STAY: The Merchant’s House Boutique B&B 

“TAVERNS: Ognistra, Gabriel’s Steps, The ‘Old Perithia’, O Foros, Capricorn.” 

At the very bottom of the sign is the footnote: “The Official Guidebook to Old Perithia is available at all good bookshops and at The Merchant’s House.” 

MT 11:53 AM – Peritheia: view of Mt. Pantokrator summit (mild telephoto 45 mm). 

12:00 PM – Peritheia: our group heading toward Church of St. Jacob from Persia.

At the entrance of the village is the bell tower of the church of Saint Jacob from Persia. Jacob is another version of the Biblical name James. Jacob is derived from late Latin Iocobus, from Greek from Ἰάκωβος (Iakobos), from Hebrew יַעֲקֹב (Yaʿqob), the name of the Hebrew patriarch Jacob. In a Christian context, Jacob—James as reduced English form—is the name of several people in the New Testament; it is a modern descendant, through Old French James, of Vulgar Latin Iacomus, a derivative version of Latin Iacobus, the Latin form of the Hebrew name Jacob.

The church seems to be named for St. James the Persian, also known as St. James Intercisus (St. James the Cut-in-Pieces), due to the terrible torment he suffered before being beheaded. He lived under the reign of Shah Yazdegerd I (399-420) and under his son Bahram V (420-438) and was martyred in that period because he would not renounce his Christian faith. According to some, his martyrdom took place in 421 AD. He is venerated as a saint in the Eastern Orthodox Church, as well as the Roman Catholic Church, Eastern Catholic Churches, and Oriental Orthodoxy.

12:00 PM – Peritheia: Church of St. Jacob from Persia – façade and separate bell tower (mild telephoto 38 mm). 

MT 12:00 PM – Peritheia: Don in front of Church of St. Jacob from Persia. 

Then the van returned in about 1 hour to the port of Corfu. 

1:20 PM – Corfu: Viking Star in port (mild telephoto 38 mm). 

1:20 PM – Corfu: port with Mt. Pantokrator in distance and Viking Star at right; the young lady in the red shirt was one of the singers on our ship. 

MT 1:14 PM – Corfu: Don with Viking Star in port. 

MT 1:15 PM – Corfu: MT with Viking Star in port. 

Then we got the young lady singer from the ship to take photos of us and the ship with MT’s iPhone; she took several. 

MT 1:19 PM – Corfu: Don and MT with Viking Star in port. 

MT 1:21 PM – Corfu: MT and Don on dock in port. 

MT 1:22 PM – Corfu: MT and Don on dock in port. 

MT 1:23 PM – Corfu: MT and Don on dock in port. 

MT 1:23 PM – Corfu: MT and Don on dock in port. 

Back onboard the Viking Star, we went to see the Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” in the Star Theater, scheduled for 4 pm.

The Viking Daily newsletter described this show as “regional folkloric music, dancing and traditional costumes from Corfu and the Ionian Islands, including performances of the famous ‘Syrtaki’ and ‘Zorba the Greek” from this popular local group.”

A caryatid (Greek: Karyatid, Latin plural: caryatides, Greek: Καρυάτιδες [karyatides]) is a priestess of the temple of Diana at Karyai, in Laconia (in extreme southern Greece), or a supporting column that has the form of a female figure draped in an Ionia costume (such as on the Parthenon in Athens).

MT 4:02 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage (mild telephoto 39 mm). 

4:09 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage. 

4:10 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage. 

MT 4:03 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage (mild telephoto 49 mm). 

4:10 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage. 

4:12 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage. 

4:12 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage. 

MT 4:05 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage (mild telephoto 46 mm). 

4:13 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage. 

MT 4:06 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage (mild telephoto 66 mm). 

MT 4:08 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage (mild telephoto 66 mm). 

4:14 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage. 

4:15 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage. 

MT 4:10 PM –Viking Star: musicians of Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage (mild telephoto 53 mm). 

MT 4:10 PM –Viking Star: musicians of Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage (VIDEO). 

4:26 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage. 

MT 4:19 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage (mild telephoto 50 mm). 

MT 4:20 PM –Viking Star: Local Folkloric Group “Karyatides” on Theater stage (VIDEO).

Around 4:30, the Viking Star set sail for our next stop at Katakolon, Greece (174 nautical miles). 

At 5:15, we went to the Port Talk for Katakolon in the Viking Theater. 

Shortly after 6 pm, we went to the Greek Buffet in the World Café. 

After dinner, MT did two loads of laundry in the Launderette on our deck.

MT Sunday, ‎August ‎4, ‎2019, 8:40 PM –Viking Star: Sunset.